Over the course of its 20-plus years of production, the trusty GM LS engine came from the factory in a wide range of displacements, from a humble 4.8L to a rowdy 7.0L. So if you’re thinking about an LS engine swap, LS engine build, or LS engine upgrade, the first number you’ll likely care about is the LS motor’s displacement in liters.
This handy LS resource page is a good one to bookmark if you’re considering an LS crate engine for a swap, or looking for a 6.2L (about 378 cubic inches) LS short block to start a project.
Learn more about each LS engine displacement:
* 4.8L LS Engine Guide: Block Specs, Swap Resources & Build Info
* 5.3L LS Engine Guide: Block Specs, Swap Resources & Build Info
* 5.7L LS Engine Guide: Block Specs, Swap Resources & Build Info
* 6.0L LS Engine Guide: Block Specs, Swap Resources & Build Info
* 6.2L LS Engine Guide: Block Specs, Swap Resources & Build Info
* 7.0L LS Engine Guide: Block Specs, Swap Resources & Build Info
The 6.2L LS Engine Family
After being introduced as the L92/Vortec 6200 engine in GM’s large SUVs, the 6.2L’s ascension up the horsepower ladder got really interesting when the LS3 arrived on the scene as the base powerplant for the Corvette in 2008. Horsepower climbed even higher when GM decided to supercharge it to create the LSA for the new ZL1 Camaro, then again to create the LS9 for the new Corvette ZR1.
All told, if you need a good foundation for a mega-horsepower build, then the aluminum block 6.2L can probably handle it.
You may also want to check out our Definitive Guide to LS Engine Specs and LS Engine Upgrades.
6.2L LS Engine Specs
Suffice it to say, with such a wide range of 6.2L LS engines out there, it’s critical to know the distinction between each one before you choose an engine for your swap or build. We’ve listed them all in the table below, and we added hyperlinks on each specific LS engine name (L92, LS3, LSA, etc.) that you can click on to learn more.
6.2L LS & Vortec Engine Spec Guide
| Years | Liter | Code | Vehicle | Cam Bolts | Reluctor | VVT | AFM | Flex Fuel | VIN (8th Digit) | Block | Head |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2007-08 | 6.2 | L92 | SUV | 1 | 58X/4X | Yes | No | No | 8 | Alum. | Rectangle |
| 2010-14 | 6.2 | L94 | SUV | 1 | 58X/4X | Yes | Yes | Yes | F | Alum. | Rectangle |
| 2010-15 | 6.2 | L99 | Camaro (auto) | 1 | 58X/4X | Yes | Yes | No | J | Alum. | Rectangle |
| 2009-14 | 6.2 | L9H | Truck/SUV | 1 | 58X/4X | Yes | No | Yes | 2 | Alum. | Rectangle |
| 2008-17 | 6.2 | LS3 | Performance Cars | 1 | 58X/4X | No | No | No | W | Alum. | Rectangle |
| 2010-13 | 6.2 | LS3 | C6 Grand Sport | 3 | 58X/4X | No | No | No | W | Alum. | Rectangle |
| 2008-15 | 6.2 | LSA | CTS-V, 5th Gen. ZL-1 | 1 | 58X/4X | No | No | No | P | Alum. | Rectangle |
| 2009-13 | 6.2 | LS9 | Corvette ZR-1 | 3 | 58X/4X | No | No | No | T | Alum. | Rectangle |
Looking for a 6.2L LS Engine?
Here are two LS Engine Spotter’s Guides that will help:
- LS Engine Spotter’s Guide, Part 1: Matching the Vehicle to the Engine
- LS Engine Spotter’s Guide, Part 2: Matching the Engine to the Vehicle
LS Engine Swap Parts Guide
Our friends over at Summit Racing developed a helpful resource that’ll give you an idea of some of the parts you’ll need to complete your LS engine swap—including specific LS swap requirements for exact vehicle models. You can check it out here:
I am thinking of swapping the original (high mileage) LS2 in my 2007 Vette (Mar 2007 build) for an LS3 (GM crate engine approximately 480-500hp), 6spd manual Z51 coupe. Just wondering what unforeseen probs I might encounter…ECM programming, clutch, etc. Have also replaced the rad with a Dewitt ‘Direct Replacement’ which also hooked to the stock oil & trans cooler and has much better cooling.
This is a fairly involved swap, sensors to rewire and reroute, new ecu/pcm to need tuning and rebuilding the LS2 will most likely be less expensive, even if you already own the LS3. While its a novel idea and would see hp/tq benefits in stock engines, a moderately built LS2 can easily attain 400rwhp.
I have a question I am putting a 5.3 with active fuel management into my 2009 Denali that had a 6.2 with no active fuel management can I just believe the engine the way it is and install it and will everything work
Can anyone please discuss this issue with me I would appreciate any help I can get
Hey Kenneth, have you tried contacting the Summit Racing tech folks? They’ll be able to help answer that question.
Brother you do not want anything to do with AFM. It becomes a huge problem for the lifters as the engine gets a little age on it. Im swapping out my 5.3 AFM for a 6.2 If you’ve already went to the AFM system I recommend getting one of the AFM disabler chips. Including myself I know 5 different people in my area that’s lifters keep collapsing because of the AFM. It was a noble but bad design from Chevrolet.
Why would you pull a 6.2 and replace it with a 5.3. You are probably the only person in the country even considering this.
Closer to answering your question, at least you would have to change computers. You may even have to change your wiring harness. I don’t know the specifics on that.
I can tell you I pulled a 5.3 out of a Tahoe and put it in the same year Tahoe that had a 5.3 and it would not fire until we changed computers. Once we did that it hit first lick.
Most likely a V.A.T.S issue. Ecu/pcm does not care that its a different engine as long as all sensors (model/year/disp) are the same. What it does care about is that the VIN on its base file MUST match the VIN on the ECBM. You can use all original equipped components, rewrite your base file to the original VIN or eliminate VATS (both require tuning). Keep in mind..any ECBM is programmed with specific components its to run. Meaning that if you have an LT/LTZ and pull an ECBM from a WT/LS or Fleet, you will most likely end up with little, if anything, functioning.
Yes and no you’ll have to change the tune in the computer because I’m sure the 6.2 had vvt
Wondering why this would be a consideration, but I suppose you have reasons for it. No, they are two completely different animals as far as the ecu/pcm are concerned. All genIV ecu/pcm’s use whats called “Co-Efficient’s” to many fueling, base pressure’s..etc.. the 6.2L engine has around 25% more HP/TQ than any 5.3L produced. This means that the ecu/pcm will interpret the lower HP/TQ as a low value and attempt to increase the values. While most of the sensors will connect and function (possibly even start the vehicle), they will error the ecu/pcm out and disable the ecu/pcm to protect the engine/trans. IF a person actually did wish to do this swap, a 5.3l ecu/pcm would be needed and VATS removed.
I have a 2001 350 merc cruiser in my boat w/cracked block.Want to swap it with a 6.2 liter LS truck motor. Can i just put the 350 marine parts on the 6.2 LS motor?
Hey Todd – a few things, I’m assuming the Mercruiser is based on the Gen. 1/2 SBC and not the newer Gen. III LS family right? If so, you’ll likely run into some compatibility issues. What 350 Marine Parts are you talking about? Internals? Accessory drive stuff?
…
I’m not too familiar with the specific Mercruiser engine you’re referring to – but you should know that many marine engines are actually reverse rotation (IE they spin backwards compared to a traditional street motor). I believe the rotation thing was to compensate for the weight of the pilot on the right side of the boat, but that’s just a guess. So swapping in a street motor from a scrapyard is probably a no-go—without significant modification anyway.
Years ago, I recall working with a Ford 351W engine out of a 1990s-era Correct Craft Ski Nautique that required marine-specific ignition components, camshaft, and some other vital parts to address the reverse rotation—but outside of that, it was pretty much a typical Windsor small block.
Hope this helps.
Todd,
Just saw this, hope I can offer some assistance.
Merc got away from the reverse rotation motors in the early 90’s except in big boat applications where certain drives cannot handle running full time in the reverse direction, think twin applications where you want one prop to spin one way and the other to spin the other.
I have also installed street motors into boats with the appropriate marine rated accessories bolted on, easy way to get the boat going while waiting for a new motor build.
Most likely the 2001 Merc 350 would be a GEN1 SBC vortec head (hopefully 8062 and not 906), hydraulic roller motor, standard rotation. I would put money on it being a “3883” block. Either a Throttle body or possibly multi port injection with no O2 sensors, distributor ignition.
Maybe the new style (dry) exhaust manifolds, maybe old style (wet).
No internals will be the same as an LS1 (maybe hydraulic roller lifters) and most accessory brackets will be different, exhaust manifolds different. Flywheel/coupler would be different due to SBC vs LSx crank positioning. Different ECM would be required.
It quickly gets very expensive.
Merc did offer a stroked 6.2l SBC version of this motor somewhere around 2004, nowadays they offer a 6.2l LS version.
Your least expensive option is to get a new 350 short block and bolt on all the existing parts/accessories.
Or, you can go for more power and build a stroked 383 (6.2L) short block of the same, I’ve done 3 of them with different options(costs) and different power gains.
Re-use the vortec heads and the existing intake/ignition setup.
Aftermarket vortec heads use existing intake/ignition with ECM tune.
Aluminum heads, aftermarket intake/ignition/ECM(coils under plugs) aftermarket exhaust +O2 sensors and a lot of tuning.
remember if you go too far, you’ll need a new prop and have to start worrying about the rating of your outdrive, Alpha < 300 horse, Bravo < 400 horse.
Finally, the cracked block, if water freeze, you need to get the heads, exhaust manifolds, raw water pump and the cool fuel pump tested for leaks. Also oil and power steering coolers if equipped. I did my buddies boat that had a water freeze, heads ok, exhaust manifolds toast, raw water pump toast, cool fuel toast, aftermarket oil cooler toast, and of course the merc "ball of death" was toast.
Good luck
L92 is in the table twice and L94 is missing. Would be good to correct that.
Hey Jeff, good catch! We’ve made the fix in the table above, thanks for reading.
Kinda a dumb question but I’m swapping a 6.2 out of a 2007 Yukon Denali and I’m having a little trouble finding a flywheel for it because I plan on using the sm465 that’s already in my truck and that’s a 1 and 1/8 x 10 input shaft so I need the flywheel, clutch plate and pressure plate.
I have a 2000 GMC Sahara 5.3LS. I’m wanting to put A6.2LS out of a Cadillac Escalade. Will I have any problems thanks
I have 2 6.2 blocks. One of them the deck surface was cleaned with scotch brite disk and cylinders – sleeves are thinner on one side just on some of them. The other block they look perfectly centered. Same thickness all the way around the bore. I want to bore that one to 4.125 is that possible?
will the engine from a 2021 GMC 6.2L 4×4 work with my 2008 Cadillac Escalade 6.2 L AWD?
Looking at swapping out a 7.0l block from the 6.2l into my 2017 Sedan SS…are there external differences I need to be aware of?
How do I identify my 6.2 L from the casting numbers multiple share the same casting numbers
Hello, I have a 1999 SWB,2WD Silverado 1500. I thinking about swapping the 4.3 for a 6.2 I pulled out of an Escalade, computer and harness. How much trouble am I looking at and is this a common swap?
Thanks
2007 it says it’s got a 6.2 engine but I had a dude said it look to small to be a 6.2 engine and I just baught the truck Cadillac escalator esv 6.2 engine 6 speed shifter on gear shifter trying to see if it’s not because it run good now the engine reduces power come on sometimes the I reset it and it’s good again but when I got it it’s got a ticking sound but no lights on only time a light comes on when a engine reduces power comes on po601 code error