Good thing: Kickin’ audio system with megawatt amps, big subs, zillions of speakers, crossovers, and enough wire to hook up your average city.
Bad thing: Melted, smoking, fried vehicle electrical system ’cause you didn’t have a big enough alternator.
The fact is, not having enough amps to properly feed your vehicle’s electrical accessories can DOA a typical OEM electrical system. While it does have some reserve power for small accessories, the extra amperage draw created by a high-power audio system (or race electronics, or lighting, etc.) can cause a stock electrical system to literally melt from the inside out.
Luckily, a simple alternator upgrade can prevent such a catastrophe. We’ll guide you through the alternator selection process, how to decide whether you need an upgrade, how to find the proper size alternator, and tips for getting the most out of your new alternator.
Do You Need a High-Amp Alternator?
Deciding if you need a more-powerful alternator is easy once you understand exactly what kind of power, or amperage, you need.
Amperage is defined as the maximum capacity or maximum volume of electricity an alternator is capable of producing. If your vehicle’s electrical load exceeds the amperage—or maximum capacity—of your alternator, you’re asking for trouble.
Most factory alternators are rated at 65 to 100 amps and are capable of handling a vehicle’s basic accessories—headlights, gauges, fuel pumps, transmission, A/C, etc. While many alternators have a 10-percent to 15-percent power reserve to handle additional accessories, this is often insufficient capacity to power high end audio systems or other high-amperage items.
For example, a typical 500-watt stereo system draws upwards of 60 amps when cranked. A stock vehicle’s electrical accessories draw an additional 60 amps total. To run 120 amps’ worth of goodies with an 80-amp alternator, it will have to run at 100-percent capacity—and draw reserve power from the battery—with no cool-down time. The result is predictable—drastically reduced alternator life.
If you’re looking for hard evidence that you need to upgrade your alternator, take a look at your voltmeter. When you are drawing reserve power from your battery, the voltmeter will read below 12.7 VDC. If your voltmeter spends a lot of time below that figure, you are surpassing the maximum capacity of your alternator.
Choosing the Right Alternator for Your Vehicle
Selecting the right alternator comes down to figuring out your vehicle’s total electrical load. The most accurate way to determine electrical load is with an ammeter. With the engine off and the battery charged, connect an ammeter in series with the battery’s ground terminal. Switch each electrical component on and off, noting their amperage draws. Add up the total ammeter readings. Your alternator output should be 50 percent greater than that figure.
If you don’t have an ammeter, you can estimate electrical load by checking the accessory fuses. The amp ratings will be slightly higher than the highest draw of each component , but the sum of all fuse ratings will give you a general idea of the vehicle’s electrical load.
This chart shows the amperage draw of common electrical accessories:
Amp Draw of Some Common Accessories
Accessory: Amp Draw:
Air Conditioner 20-21
Audio Power Amplifiers 10-70
Back-up Lamps 3-4
Cigarette Lighter 10-12
CD/Tuner with amp 7-14
CD/Player/Tuner without amp 2.5-5
Dome Light 1-2
Electric Cooling Fans 6-15
Head Lamp Dimmer 2
Head Lamp (Low Beam) 8-10
Head Lamp (High Beam) 13-15
Heater Defroster 6-15
Ignition (Racing) 8-36
Instrument Panel 0.7-1.5
Lamp, Gauges 1.5-3.5
Lamps, License Plate 1.5-2
Lamps, Parking 1.5-2
Lamps, Side Marker 1.3-3
Lamps, Tail 5-7
Nitrous Oxide Solenoid 5-8
Power Windows Defroster 1-30
Power Seats 25-50
Power Windows 20-30
Power Antenna 6-10
Pumps, Electric Fuel 3-8
Starter Solenoid 10-12
Voltage Regulators (1 Wire) 0.3-0.5
Once you’ve determined the electrical load of your vehicle, there are a couple of things to keep in mind as you are choosing your alternator. First, you can never have too much amperage. Again, amperage is defined as the total electrical capacity of your alternator, and it is impossible to have too much electrical capacity.
A good-quality, high-amp alternator can also help you gain horsepower. While most alternators are only about 75-percent efficient (some power is lost in the form of heat and wind resistance from the cooling fins), a higher amp alternator will recover lost horsepower by allowing your electrical system to run at maximum voltage.
Getting the Most From Your Alternator
Here are some ways you can get optimum performance from that new alternator:
- Use the proper gauge charge wire. The charge wire is the wire that carries power from the alternator to the battery and the electrical system. Too small a wire will restrict the flow of electricity. Use the chart in Paragraph 16 to select the right charge wire.
- Make sure the alternator belt and tensioner (if equipped) are in excellent shape. High-amp alternators usually have a smaller pulley than stock to overdrive the system by 16 percent. The slightly heavier load will cause added stress to your belt, so it needs to be in good shape.
- If you are strapped for space, many alternators can be run in reverse (pulley side toward the driver). The alternator will still charge properly, but cooling efficiency will be reduced and life span of the alternator may be shortened.
Balance of Power
Like most things, an alternator is a compromise. It strike s a balance between drawing power from the engine (via the drive belt) and delivering back that power by helping the ignition system perform at its peak. By using the proper size alternator, you can tip the balance of power in your favor and create a horsepower gain.
By using the following formula, you can determine the amount of power it takes to operate an alternator (where 745.7 equals one horsepower and a 25-percent alternator efficiency loss is assumed):
Amps x Volts = Watts
Watts / 745.7 = Electrical Horsepower Produced
Electrical HP X 25% (.25) Efficiency Loss = Horsepower Lost
Electrical HP Produced + HP Lost = Total Horsepower Used
Let’s apply the formula to an alternator that produces 57 amps at 14.9 volts:
57 x 14.9 = 849.3 Watts
849.3/745.3 = 1.14 Electrical Horsepower Produced
1.14 x .25 = .285 Horsepower Lost
1.14 + .285 = 1.425 Horsepower Used
As the formula shows, this alternator doesn’t take much horsepower to operate. And by supplying the proper voltage to your electrical/ignition system so it operates at peak efficiency, the alternator can actually help your engine produce more power—more power than it takes to operate the alternator itself.
Recommended Charging Cable Gauge Size
|Amps||Up to 4′||4′-7′||7′-10′||10′-13′||13′-16′||16′-19′||19′-22′||22′-28′|
The fuse companies will love you… 🙂
Under heading of Balance of Power” he 6th line shows “Amps x Volts + Watts”.
I believe this should read “Amps x Volts = Watts”
Correct. We have made the edit. Thanks for bringing it to our attention–and for reading!
i am planning to buy an alternator to connect to my 1 KVA inverter in the farm, what ratings should i look at, run it at what RPM.
1000/12=83.3 so I would run at least a 150 amp alternator so it will not be at full load.
Excellent information ! I just learned some very important things I never thought about ! Thank You for putting this together, I can move forward with confidence. Thank You ! Steve.
[…] gauges. Give this blog post a read to find out if 95, 100, or 130 amps is going to be enough: How to Choose an Alternator – OnAllCylinders When it comes to 1 wire or 3 wire, 1G or 3G i know I have been down that road. I have finally […]
I am installing an alternator in a 11/2 litre riley. Im not a sparky,but the info, gives me an idear of the alternator I need thanks
My 120 amp alternators instructions call for a 10 gauge wire, you state using a 4 gauge wire, I planned on using an 8 gauge, now who do I believe……Ron
Ronald Although the 10AWG wire can push alot of amperage for a few seconds I would instead use a thicker gauge because if you pull to many amps for long periods it is possible that wire could burn up. Bassically get the wire that is suited for how many amps you are drawing. Perferable a little bigger. The bigger the wire, the more amps that cant flow saftley. The smaller the wire, the more it will TRY to pull the amps through it and it will burn up/Get super hot if it is past its rating/duty cycle .https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge
If you add up all the minimums, you get about 188amps. To the best of my knowledge, cars generally don’t come with this kind of amperage (about 2.2KW). Obviously not all of these things are going to be on all the time.
This article is also making a large claim for itself, free energy:
” the alternator can actually help your engine produce more power—more power than it takes to operate the alternator itself.”
This is absolutely impossible. The best possible interpretation is that if you have a failing alternator, replacing it would improve performance. But by definition, doing work takes power and adding an additional load to an engine is not going to make it produce more power, it will lower the power available to the rest of the system.
Yes; agree it will reduce horsepower available: as much as 1.14 hp. Negligable, imho.
It’s not free power. Lets say an alt takes 1.14hp to run. When you upgrade a better alt, it allows your ignition system to run more efficiently letting your engine convert the energy more efficiently. Say the upgrade allows you to produce 7.8 more hp, you still lose the power draw of the alt, but you are left with a 6.66hp net gain. The potential energy that is stored in the gas is the same in both cases. The better atl just lets the system convert chemical energy to useful mechanical work better.
Also by that logic turbos and superchargers are impossible.
No, it means you can’t get more power from a turbo or supercharger than the power used to turn them. Turbos use otherwise wasted heat energy, and supers are driven by the crank. Both compress air, but alone they would lean out the engine and blow it up. Both require additional fuel. That’s where the increase in vehicle output comes from.
A higher output alternator will neither have an effect on your ignition system, nor increase vehicle power output.
You have to understand that yes all minimums add up to 188 amps.
But you also have to realise that 30+% are not running all the time.
Like aircon or heater or cigerette lighter ect only draw power WHEN there activated.
So when you look at it like that then the 188 amps is roughly a calculation of over 3 times the actual constant output voltages. And therefore as calculated through the amps of alternator v the amps drawn allows for a % of over amps intermittently and still within the amps in reserve allows for a small constant overdraw.
I never realized using the proper gauge wire can help you get the most from your alternator. My wife’s car has been having some electrical issues. We’ll definitely have to take a look under the hood. Thanks for the info!
I did the larger wire ( 1/0 awg) to the power from alt>battery and also upgraded the neg since it is a complete circuit and noticed a much better and smoother difference in my trucks performance.
WOW . Some of the questions are more confusing than the attempted answers. I guess the willingness of readers to get involved is a good thing.
But I’m afraid this train wreck was caused by way too much smoke…not from hot smoking wires. Automotive electrical wiring can be difficult sometimes.
my gm 10 si alternator with internal regulator keeps shorting out i had a 95 amp the store only had a 63 amp i have replaced it twice all my wires are new 12v to batt 8g #2 to 12v 10g and #1 toi ign 12g. so do i need to go back to a bigger alternator or are there 65amp remans all junk??
My car keeps dying i have halo headlights and led tailights and an aftermarket radio with speakers but my battery keeps dying idk if i need a high output alternator
Check out this post for more details, Ismael: http://www.onallcylinders.com/2013/09/18/diagnosing-some-common-charging-system-problems/
[…] as the following to help determine the reserve capacity of the stock Transit electrical system: http://www.onallcylinders.com/2012/1…an-alternator/ 2015 3.5 High Roof 148 Extended Limited Slip 3.31 Truck is online now […]
If I go from a 125amp alternator to a 160amp alternator is there going to be a noticeable difference? Or should I just go with a 250amp alternator?
It really depends on the electrical load your vehicle, Jordan. You can’t have too much amperage, so it really depends on if you plan on adding more electrical components or greater demand to your vehicle.
I am planning to install an additional AC on the roof in my new 250 Transit. The manual says that the current drawing Amp is 30. Will the heavy duty alternator 250 amp be enough to power it?
[…] all this in mind, you’re ready to choose the right alternator for your […]
This has been an informative article. I have a 92 Celica, all stock that I’ve owned for 13 years and it eats alternators, one every 2-3 years. Batteries every 3-5. It has all the power options, a/c, sunroof etc. And currently has a 70 amp that is 2 years old and toast. The headlights have always been dim until i step on the gas and I never put it together that maybe it was the amps. Do you think I need a higher output? Would it last any longer? Thanks
Yes. They make aftermarket alternators now that keep running higher amps at idle. Be sure to see that it states it does.You wont have much gain under 2000 rpm if it is not idle ready alt, or just a high output alt. that depends solely on higher rpm.
I have a 2007 Impala LT 3.5 reg gas. With a 5000 watt sound system with a 300 amp battery relay and a 24DC secondary battery in the trunk with a 30 farad capacitor what size alternator do u recommend
I have a 2007 Impala LT 3.5 reg gas. With a 5000 watt sound system with a 300 amp battery relay and a 24DC secondary battery in the trunk with a 30 farad capacitor what size alternator do u recommend i believe my stock alternator is rated at 125amps
I guarantee you are amp deficient Christopher. Your wires must get very hot and alternator wont last long. see this:
Also upgrade “the big 3 or 4” to allow all the apms to flow freely through your electrical system.
I have 3 amps in my 98 silverado, 4000 watts, what size alt. should I use?
I have a Chevy Silverado 2500 HD I use to pull a 3 horse trailer and in the winters operate a Boss snowplow. How many Amps should my alternator be?
What alternator voltage do I need for a c1 62 vette I am installing electrical steering
I have a 1997 Honda Civic LX and I really need to know what the necessary amps should be for a replacement alternator..?! I am close to purchasing a 75 amp alternator, but If i don’t have to pay $100 for a higher amp, I really would rather not! Someone got a good answer for me? Will a 60-65amp alternator do? It would be much cheaper on me & get me back on the road asap!
I’m planing on installing a 7,000 watt sterio system in my 2001 Nissan xterra what alt. should I be looking at? please help
I want an alternator to charge a lithium ion battery which can run a 350watt 36v BLDC hub motor.I am trying to build a series hybrid scooter.So can suggest an alternator to be used to charge the battery with reduced time.
Gee. My poor explorer caught fire after starting it one December morning it was about 12 below and I had a new starter installed only 3 months back started every time in less then 3 seconds through the summer On that frightfull morning I was in a hurry to cash my cheek normally I’d wait until after noon for the temperature to rise and warm up the streets But not this morning so I sent out and turned the starter key it was acting like it had a lot of resistance but started so I go back in my cabin to get a cup of coffee 3 minutes later I saw smoke passing by my door of my cabin Gee I ran out and there was smoke coming up. From below the front hood. I pop it open and saw fire down between the passenger side tire and where the starter was at. I raced to catch some water but by the time I returned the entire vehicle was a maze of fire. So the battery cable over heated caught fire spreading to. all the rest of the plastic fender wells and wiring going through the fire wall. The wiring harness was old and chemically had become more susceptible sustaining a flash fire. Hmm. Doesn seem to be a wiring harness laying around gee
My name is Larry and I just purchased a new Nissan Rogue SL. I was reading another post else where that too much AMPs will over heat the battery and blow it. However, you say ‘you can never have too much AMPs’. I know that when I put my battery charger on a battery it can dry up the cells from over heating, (boiling). Is there a difference in a capacitor between the Alternator and charger? According to Nissan I need a bigger alternator to run my Inverter to operate my Oxygen machine to breath. I have found a 220 amp, battery isolator, wiring, 1500 to 3000 watt inverter and 2 deep cycle 12V batteries. Either way I know I have to up grade the charging wire.
“too much AMPs will over heat the battery and blow it”
That’s not how things work. The amperage rating is how much it is able to produce, but that doesn’t mean it’s constantly outputting that much. The alternator will only output as much as is being drawn by the electrical system (your car and accessories). (Conversely, trying to draw more power than the alternator can provide will burn up the alternator)
“when I put my battery charger on a battery it can dry up the cells from over heating”
That sounds like you have an old or cheap charger that doesn’t have auto-detection and shutoff (aka overvoltage protection).
The problem you describe is from too much electricity continuing to be pumped into the battery after the cells have reached their maximum capacity. Chargers with overvoltage/overcharge protection can detect when the battery is at max capacity and stop the flow of electricity going into the battery.
Hello, I have a 1956 Canadian Meteor with a 223 inline6 engine. The system runs on a 30 amp. generator, with voltage regulator. I am considering changing to an alternator. Smallest alternator I can find, to physically fit is a 65 amp alternator that produces 65 amp at idle, and 90 amp on the highway. All electrical components are original, with no additional instruments. By reading your article, more amps available are better that not enough to supply the system. If I do this, am I safe? Txs.