So you’re considering swapping out your stock alternator.
There are plenty of good reasons to make the leap to a high-output alternator, but you’ll need to do a little bit of homework first. Luckily, we’ve got smart friends to help us with our studies, so you can ace the topic. In conjunction with the alternator experts at Powermaster and MSD, we’ve compiled the five things you need to know before upgrading to a high-amp, or high-output alternator.
This starts with the most basic of questions:
Do You Really Need a High-Output Alternator?
If you’ve got a basic, stock vehicle, chances are you don’t need a high-output alternator. Most factory alternators are rated at 65 to 100 amps and are capable of handling your vehicle’s basic necessities, such as headlights, gauges, fuel pumps, A/C, etc. These alternators also typically come with a 10 to 15 percent reserve to handle additional accessories.
However, many of our readers don’t have a stock vehicle. For example, you may have a custom-built street rod with a unique combination of accessories. Or you may have a high-end stereo system or a race vehicle with an array of on-board electronics. As the electrical load of all these accessories add up, you may find yourself in need of a higher-amperage alternator.
But how do you know?
There are a few ways to figure out whether you need to upgrade your alternator. A few telltale signs are dim headlights, poor stereo system performance, or an alternator that simply wears out quickly. You can also check your electrical load using an ammeter. Simply connect the ammeter in series with the battery’s ground terminal (with the engine turned off), switch each electrical component on and off, and note their amperage draws. Add up the total electrical draw and compare with your alternator’s rated output. The output should be 50 percent greater than the draw.
One final way to estimate your vehicle’s electrical load is to check the accessory fuses. The amp ratings, although slightly higher than the highest draw of each component, will give you a good estimate of your vehicle’s electrical load.
What Amperage Do You Need?
That depends on the current draw, along with any future accessories you plan to add. For that reason, we’ve supplied a list of some common accessories and their amp draw:
Electrical Load of Common Vehicle Accessories
|Audio Power Amplifiers||10-70|
|CD/Tuner with Amp||7-14|
|CD/Player/Tuner without Amp||2.5-5|
|Electric Cooling Fans||6-15|
|Head Lamp Dimmer||2|
|Head Lamp (Low Beam)||8-10|
|Head Lamp (High Beam)||13-15|
|Lamps, License Plate||1.5-2|
|Lamps, Side Marker||1.3-3|
|Nitrous Oxide Solenoid||5-8|
|Power Windows Defroster||1-30|
|Pumps, Electric Fuel||3-8|
|Voltage Regulators (1 Wire)||0.3-0.5|
How Much is Too Much?
You can never have too much amperage when it comes to alternators; therefore, you never have to worry about choosing an alternator with too high of a rated output. Here’s why:
Amperage is basically the amount of electrical current your alternator can supply. And it basically operates off of supply and demand. That is, your alternator will only supply the amount of amperage a particular component demands—and no more. So high-output alternators will not harm your components or charging system, no matter how high you go with the amps.
What Gauge Wire Do You Need?
A performance alternator really doesn’t require much in the way of modifications. However, Powermaster and other alternator manufacturers do recommend you replace both the ground straps and charge wire. Keep in mind the factory cables weren’t designed to handle the juice of a higher-output alternator, and can restrict the flow of electricity.
In the case of the charge wire, you really can’t go too large. However, here is a chart that matches cable gauge size to total amperage:
Recommended Cable Gauge and Length for Amp Draw
|Cable Length||Up to 4 ft.||4-7 ft.||7-10 ft.||10-13 ft.||13-16 ft.||16-19 ft.||19-22 ft.||22-28 ft.|
|0-20 Amps||14 AWG||12 AWG||12 AWG||10 AWG||10 AWG||8 AWG||8 AWG||8 AWG|
|20-35 Amps||12 AWG||10 AWG||8 AWG||8 AWG||8 AWG||6 AWG||6 AWG||4 AWG|
|35-50 Amps||10 AWG||8 AWG||8 AWG||6 AWG||6 AWG||4 AWG||4 AWG||4 AWG|
|50-65 Amps||8 AWG||8 AWG||6 AWG||4 AWG||4 AWG||4 AWG||4 AWG||2 AWG|
|65-85 Amps||6 AWG||6 AWG||4 AWG||4 AWG||4 AWG||2 AWG||2 AWG||0 AWG|
|85-105 Amps||6 AWG||6 AWG||4 AWG||2 AWG||2 AWG||2 AWG||2 AWG||0 AWG|
|105-125 Amps||4 AWG||4 AWG||4 AWG||2 AWG||2 AWG||2 AWG||2 AWG||0 AWG|
|125-150 Amps||2 AWG||2 AWG||2 AWG||2 AWG||2 AWG||0 AWG||0 AWG||0 AWG|
What is Pulley Ratio (and Why Should You Care)?
In short, pulley ratio is a comparison between the crankshaft pulley diameter and alternator pulley diameter. This ratio is derived by dividing the crank pulley diameter by the alternator pulley. For example, a 6-inch crank pulley with 2-inch alternator pulley will yield a 3:1 pulley ratio.
The ratio has a direct effect on how fast the alternator spins.
In order to understand the importance of pulley ratio, you first need to understand the “power curve” involved with alternator output. Although the alternator’s output is dependent upon engine speed, it follows a unique curve. At idle, small changes in the alternator’s speed can make a big difference, so the pulley ratio becomes very important.
Powermaster supplies its alternators with pulleys matched to the alternator’s power curve. The company follows this common rule of thumb:
- Street use = 3:1 ratio or slightly higher
- Drag racing = 1.75:1 ratio
- Circle track = 1:1 ratio
So why should you care?
Because differing ratios can affect performance, you should take care to maintain the same pulley ratio if you decide to use dress-up pulley sets. A mismatched pulley ratio and alternator can lead to big problems, especially at idle where alternator performance is critical. That’s because these high-amp units typically lose output under 2,400 rotor rpm. Rotor rpm are a factor of pulley ratio multiplied by engine speed. So, if you have a pulley ratio of 2:1 multiplied by an engine speed of 870, you’ll get a rotor rpm of 1,827.
At 1,827 rpm, you’ll see a significant drop in alternator output.
Again, the ideal ratio depends on your application (street, drag racing, circle track racing), but you need to understand the effects of altering pulley ratio.
With all this in mind, you’re ready to choose the right alternator for your application.
ALong these same lines what if your vehicle uses 16 volt battery or batteries
Thanks for reading Bryan. Great topic–here is our article on 16-volt batteries.
I have a 1984 elcamino.what modifications are needed,just wire diameter?
You can use the make/model search on SummitRacing.com to find upgrades that will drop into your El Camino here: http://www.summitracing.com/search/department/ignitions-electrical/part-type/alternators-and-generators/year/1984/make/chevrolet/model/el-camino
From there, you should just need the charge wire upgrade.
hi david, thank you for this information!
How can u tell what ratio pulley u have?
Get a string and a tape measure, and a calculator.
Wrap the string around the alternator pulley one time, so the end touches the strings free end, hold or mark that point on the string, then measure from the mark to the end. That’s your alternator pulley (AP) diameter.
Now do the same measurement for the crank pulley (CP).
Pulley ratio = CP divided by AP. (PR=CP/AP)
the measurement you provided was for circumference(around the pulley) not diameter. Diameter = radius x2. radius is the distance from the center to the edge so diameter is distance from edge to center back to edge again. You can also calculate diameter using your circumference measurement above divided by pi.
Circumference = pi multiplied by diameter, sir.
Thats the circumference. Divide it by pi for the diameter. Though for the purposes of obtaining simply a ratio, either measurement will yield the same result
Huh what? That’s circumference. Now I’m confused
Thinking a ratio is a ratio. It should be the same either way. Shrug.
I have an amp with a 150 inline fuse for my subwoofer and 2 little amps for my mids and highs one with a 20 amp fuse and one with a 30 amp fuse. all together my stereo is 2000-2600 watts. not cappy overrated brands. will a 240amp 6 phase alternator be enough, I just ordered one and I’m waiting for it now. I also have an optima yellowtop under the hood and one in the trunk. both rated at 48ah. is this enough or what else will I need
2000-2600 watts RMS or max?
Rms. This is my situation
If it’s a Class-B amp (typical car amp) then it’s about 65% efficient, meaning a bunch of power is turned into heat instead of sound. So your 2600 watt rms amp actually needs 4000 watts to do its max. (2600/0.65=4000)
Nominal alternator charge voltage is ~13.5vDC.
4000 watts / 13.5v = 296 amps of current draw.
So, if you’re driving down the highway (the alternator’s best output), then you’re still discharging your battery. If you’re idling the engine in a parking lot, it’s even worse.
It would be good, if you added a AGM-deep cycle battery
Definitely enough, I’m running 2 amps a t16000 and a db55 with 2 runs of 0/1 gauge wire going to the t16000 and 1 run of 4 gauge to the db55 and I never drop below 14.5 volts even at my peak volume with 2 batteries under the hood and a power master 250 amp alt so you will be fine
[…] pulley ratio, and wiring all come into play. We’ve covered some of these topics in this earlier post; however, we still receive many questions about alternators from readers. So we teamed up with the […]
[…] voltage, pulley ratio, and wiring all come into play. We’ve covered some of these topics in this earlier post; however, we still receive many questions about alternators from readers. So we teamed up with the […]
Maybe in the future some questions could be addressed on Tach installations. Bought a new Auto Meter Sport Comp 3905 and was wondering if all companies now recommend not using solid core ignition wires and they question which ignition system is used. Do these points just come up with this mfg.? Great info on the Alt. most things I read and like this one keep for ref.
140 amp alternator and agm battery (Exide EM1000) fried my alternator cable to the starter.
Recommend to follow the recommended sized charge wire
Your starter cable fried because something shorted.
We’ve been lately installing one of the largest subs setup we’ve ever done and been experiencing a hard time setting multiple amps in our truck and your gauge wire chart just saved me from a lot of headache.
Thanks for sharing this article.
I have a 2014 Chevy Cruze LT running 2 12 inch sundown subs and 1500 watt amp wired off .5 ohm. As you can imagine my lights flicker when its turned up, and also when I’m driving its like the car doesn’t want to go. Kind of jerks. Do I have to upgrade the alternator or add a second battery?
You want to do the Big 3 upgrade 0 gauge and you’re going to need to upgrade your alternator also you’re going to need a second battery if you don’t do this you’re going to burn up your amps
Get another alternator. Upgrade the chargimg wire and ground wire and you should be good
I have a 2001 toyota highlander. I have installed a sound system consisting of the following…
1 crescendo BC2000 powering 2 sundown SA 12’s
1 sundown 50.4 powering 4 memphis prx 6.5’s
It dims my headlights pretty bad and I was wondering if i’d need to upgrade my alternator or just my battery? Please let me know
Hey James, first things first, do your headlights dim constantly, or just when bass notes play? Have you installed a capacitor? The car audio gurus at Crutchfield have a good FAQ on the subject of capacitors. Read it here.
Alternatively, there’s a chance you may be over-taxing your electrical system. – OnAllCylinders contributor Jeff Smith has a pair of stories you should check out.
Ask Away! with Jeff Smith: When and How to Update (and Upgrade) the Charging System in a Classic Car
And this one: Ask Away! with Jeff Smith: Why Do I Keep Killing Alternators?
I am installing a 240 amp alternator in my 09 avalanche i have a 1800 watt rms amp(class d) i am also installing a second battery what size fuse do i use from the alternator to the second battery and do I need to upgrade the stock 175 amp agm fuse that is on the fire wall
Hey Dustin, here’s a basic bit of advice regarding fuses: You should fuse to the wire size you’re using, measured in AWG (American Wire Gauge). So let say you’re running a 4 AWG line in this application, then a 125 fuse would be acceptable to that size (gauge) wire. I found this website: BCAE.com that’s chock-full of info on the subject–click the “fuses” tab to learn more.
Hey good.h to see if I can get a.pipe see somewhere
For all you guys talking about amplifiers for stereos – you are not measuring correctly. A 240AMP Alternator should be plenty – and probably way overkill. You are measuring watts at consistent pulling. For example your sub’s working on one continuous note. I had a high powered stereo that ran 4 x 10’s. The draw was 50amps at every punch the woofers made with dance music. Other music was considerably less. I used zero gauge wire for the amplifiers ( 3 Alpine V12’s 1000watt x 2 and 400 watt x 1) and a 120amp fuse straight from the battery terminal. My 120 amp alternator, upgraded from 80amps was sufficient to power the stereo as well as upgraded headlights A/C etc. I also changed my battery to a higher CCA – over 500, even a second deep cycle battery used for the stereo alone was recommended for times when the car was stationary without the engine running – I didn’t do this however and never had a problem. Upgraded wiring helps for sure. Even the higher power headlights needed wiring upgrades because the wire resistance was not strong enough. Drawing too much power through a wire that can’t handle the power draw, can cause fires.
Anyway, if you remove your sub’s but still have all those watts of power, you will not use anywhere near the power you once were. The air that sub woofers have to move, is a massive drain on the system. You are able to use all your other speakers directly from the head unit because their amp draw is little. Your subs can not run off a head unit. In other words if you add amplifiers to all your other speakers, you are effectively supplying them more power – could be 500 watts to each speaker – but the amp draw is insignificant. I think that the remainder of your stereo system (without sub woofers) would be using less then 30 amps. Unless your stereo is running full boar, without a break between beats or songs or turning its volume down and what have you, then it isn’t going to draw 240amps out of your alternator.
As one person said, a capacitor can store the power produced in between those beats, drawing 50 or 60 amps – and then utilize that power for those draws. I never used capacitors and didn’t need to with heavy duty wiring and larger capacity battery.
You can’t use your head unit to power any decent speakers, c’mon. Even the better end head units 50 watts rms (claim) per channel or less. To each his own but if you’re running 2400 watts rms lows I don’t think a supposed “200 watt rms” head unit is adequate for mids and highs.
what is recommended to setup a 16 volts system in the racing car N/A more than 500 HP with an GTR injectors and AEM PN: 30-2853 coils and Electronic Water pump with electric fan and head lights …
actually in this car after the 6000 the voltage drop down up to 11 and 11.5 volts …
cus of that i decide to upgrade the charging system to save the volts at least to 13.5 volts …
so which kind of 16 volts batteries and alternator and what is the best amps for it …
note the car now supplied with an 12 volts system with 12 volts alternator and 150 Amps
Dave Fuller – This is a very helpful article – Thanks for putting it out there. I’m and IT manager, and a backyard shade tree mechanic, but can’t always find the core info I’m looking for on the web – Appreciated man!
I have 3000 watt inverter in my 2007 Ford E-250 van. I instaled ot to run a charger for my power wheelchair. Works well. Recently, I was in a political campaign. I pulled a 5’X 8′ utility trailer I had outfitted with a sign frame and lighting. The lighting was two, 100 watt equivalmnet, LED floodlights and a strobe, all AC. When I drove around at night for any thing much longer than an hour, with headlights, trailer lights and wheelchair charger all energized, I would have to start van with a jump box if I shut it down. Stock alternator was not keeping up. In order to be able to run max load on that 3000 watt inverter continuosly without pulling down battery charge, what output do I need on a high output alternator? Would you recommend a second, 12 volt battery, as well?
This is a well known problem with RVs that have a inverter. Stock alternators and regulators do not charge well for deep cycle use with a big inverter. The voltage is too low to push much amperage. There’s a fairly easy and inexpensive diy fix. You solder a couple diodes on the D+ wire that powers the field in the alternator. This makes the alternator put out a higher voltage of around 14.4 and pushes a lot more amps into the battery.
Can you explain what you did with the diodes in a little more detail please? Not everyone here is as savvy as the next person. I know I’m not…
I am using it to run the power to my house using a windmill and alternator. Like Mike, some of this Greek to me. I have wired car and houses but just the basics. TY
The ammeter doesn’t work
Can you do an accompanying article on regulators and whether you need smart regulators with dual battery or agm setups.
I’ll add that I’m looking at the Balmar fully programable, 8 stage smart regulator with temperature sensors on both the alternator and up to 2 batteries.
If you read the comment above by Sando you will see that your proposed upgrade to smart alternator and dual batteries is probably unnecessary. A slightly bigger battery, bigger cables, might do the trick. If not a minor alternator upgrade might. Smart alternator regulators are used in yachts with massive battery banks to charge and huge loads that are critical when out on the water. They can be used in RVs with large house battery banks also.
Then there is a the diy upgrade I mentioned earlier. Solder a couple of diodes in the D+ Circuit of the alternator regulator to raise the the voltage 0.7 volts and push way more amps to the battery.
Hello! My name is anthony and I have a 2009 Nissan Versa hatchback…. I’m running a 2400 watt amplifier for my two 12’s and every time I go to crank my music up, my lights are dimming…so far, I have a capacitor and it’s not showing any type of progress… I also know I have to swap out my old positive and negative battery cables… will I have to swap out my voltage regulator along with the electrical system….
I have a 2004 oldsmobile alero with 2 12in skar audio evls and I have the big 3 upgrade and a yellow top optima but I’m still having dimming issues so I want to add a high output alternator but I cant find one is there any place I should look in particular.
[…] will come at a cost tho, given that not only that amp is very costly but also it may require us to change the alternator as 3000watts RMS would be over what a regular factory alternator on a passenger car can […]
skip the capacitors they dont store enough energy to handle back to back bass notes and eventually become another parasitic draw that never finishes
alternator companies that have good ratings
as noted above amps are not constant draws so alot less total power draw will allow the batteries to charge
also this is only at full power and at the power level you have its not practical to do that
skip the capacitors they dont store enough energy to handle back to back bass notes and eventually become another parasitic draw that never finishes
if you really need the xtra then a 2nd battery and an alt are the answers and of course as big as you can 2nd ground to the frame and motor and a big 2nd alt to battery wire
alternator companies that have good ratings
as noted above amps are not constant draws so alot less total power draw will allow the batteries to charge
also this is only at full power and at the power level you have its not practical to do that so you will charge when you are not bangin at full tilt
How do I purchase a high output200amp alternator.fo my 1992 740 volvo Wagon.
I read an electrical engineer commenting that capacitors dont help much or at all with high gain amplification. Has that been the experience of anyone here? The last few posts say as much. Often a problem is some resistance somewhere.
Too small cable, poor ground, poor connector or connections,……or a faulty diode in the regulator. It will still work but put out 1/3 less power. The other thing to check is if your alternator is getting hot. Power output drops quickly when it gets up to higher temps, 200 degrees and over. Vans can be a problem especially at idle with limited fresh air.
And as the article says make sure the alternator is turning fast enough. Maybe someone put in the wrong alternator or pulley.
There is a load of 350watt,36volt on a 36volt lithium ion battery.I need to charge this battery using an alternator coupled to an engine.What alternator should i use to charge my battery. Do you have any suggestions related to the battery that i should use.
I should charge my battery with very less time.
I have a 1995 f150 5.0 v8 and just install 2 l7 kickers 12″ with a 2000 watt amp and my battery signal be dropping lower the what’s suppost too I just install a 6 fared capacitor and the battery signal keeps dropping every time the volume it’s up and punching the truck comes with a 95 amp alternator what size alternater should I upgrade with out any modiffication and should I get a yellow top Optima battery if I do yall think that will get fix
I went to autozone and try asking for a bigger amp alternator and they told me I will mest up my truck I I install a bigger amp alternater they suggest to buy the yellow top Optima battery for 300$ should I upgrade alternater or get the battery for the problem to be fix. Any advice out here thanks.
“The ideal ratio depends on your application (street, drag racing, circle track racing), but you need to understand the effects of altering the pulley ratio ”
This part helped me a lot!
I have a 1996 suburban that’s been retrofitted into a mini camper. It does have an upgraded sound system (amp, sub, stereo, speakers) some extra interior LED strip lights, and a 3000W inverter waiting to be hooked up to run various appliances. I already have 2 optima batteries(one to red top to run the starter and one yellow top just to hook to the alternator alone to run the accessories. I’m looking at a 200 amp alternator to put in but had no idea pulley size would matter. What would be ideal for my application?
i have a 1979 buick electra limited 350 v8 5.7 liter, should i stay away from re-manufactured car parts?
Our Institution acting with full
responsibility as a potential buyer of your
extensive line of products and services
hereby submit a request for quote per the
(1)-Alternator—-Alternator Tractor Delco
10SI 1-Wire One Wire with 2 Groove Pulley
Item Number: ADR0183
(2)-150 GPH HP FUEL PUMP
Street/Strip Carbureted Applications
Compatible with Gasoline, Alcohol or E85
NOTE: In addition to the above,Our
Institution standard Payment terms is Net 30
from the date of supply with the supplier’s
The University of Alabama
Box 870104 Tuscaloosa,
I’ve got a 76 stingray two fosgate amps one a360.6 and a r 750-1d 60 amp alternator that keeps dieing what size alternator do I need
A big one
I have a stock 2006 Mustang GT. My alternator failed. Upon recommendation of many, I purchased a Pa. Performance alternator through CJ Pony Parts. It turned out to be a 200 amp. I was asked by a friend if I purchased the 200 amp wiring kit for it. I did not know I needed one, so I did. I have not installed the kit yet. I am trying to wrap me head around why I needed the kit especially with a 200 amp fuse box in the wiring. An additional fact is I did change the stock under drives to Steeda under drives years ago.
Do you have any define suggestions of Alternator for poor stereo system performance? I am having an issue with my stereo system and because of lockdown can’t take any help from anyone 🙁
I have a Chrysler Sebring Touring sedan (not a convertable), since I’ve had the venicle I never put anything extra in it (Like a sound system), my alternator is a 120A even though everything was factory, yet all OEM alternators keep killing my battery even though the alternator does keep my battery charged, I replaced the battery and alternator twice, after the second time (and without a second thought) I replaced all of the lights on the outside with LED’s around the whole vehicle outside hoping that would actually help, sadly it has not, and now I will be replacing the battery and alternator for a 3rd time, and even though a higher output alternator may solve my current issue, a high output alternator isn’t “technically” made for my vehicle but I did manage to find one that will work in my vehicle (with spacing and it has identical plugs) and it puts out 160A as opposed to the 120A OEM part… does anyone have any ideas as to what the underlying issue could be?
This was EXTREMELY helpful but I am not using it is a car. I want to understand their output in making a windmill to power the house. THANK YOU
Can you recommend a Half size battery that is bullet proof long
lasting? The battery needs to be able to be positioned on its side.
I ran a D51 Optima Deep Cycle for almost 2-1/2 years absolutely no
problems, I have a track car so the battery comes in and out of the
car quite often, and I over torqued one of the terminal posts and it
started leaking, so I bought another one identical, Couldn’t hold a
charge for its life even with a Ctek 1 week top off.
What types of fuel pumps ? because in market have different types of fuel pumps with different features. can you please explain ?
My new car audio system to be installed in the near future, will draw 119 amps from an alternator at 13.7 volts. The car is a 2018 Mazda 3 GS, and has a stock alternator, which probably has a max capacity of 100 amps. Therefore, I should upgrade the alternator, correct???
I have a 2000 chevy silverado band after replacing my alternator with a new higher amp alternator, my voltage is significantly less than before. I run 2 stereo amps about 4000-5000. Which is better the high amp lower volt or the lower amp with higher voltage?
But* not band
How do I purchase a high output200amp alternator foR my 1992 740 Volvo Wagon?
Hello can you use acid filled battery for a second in the trunk to power stereo system or does it have to be dry cell and what would be the hook up or how would the wires be tied into charging system so you don’t wipe out or overpower something
I want to put a set of high power LED spot/flood lights on my Ford Territory.
The lights I have purchased have a wiring loom with it and a forty amp fuse capacity.
My vehicle has a 150 amp alternator.
Do I have to upgrade my alternator?
I appreciate your no nonsense approach with alternator applications. Here’s a little different question that I would like to run by you, especially because I know enough about electrical demands that I am contemplating to be truly dangerous.
This application involves, not a hot rod, but a 1989 Vixen SE motorhome that is undergoing a complete rebuild. The original drivetrain was the venerable Buick 3.8 and is being replaced by a 2004 GM Series III 3.8 with a supercharger—why, you may ask? Because the original motor, while a sweet runner with only 80,000 miles on it, is kind of anemic at 165 HP in a 6000 lb. vehicle. The Series III Supercharged gives me another 100 HP with virtually no penalty mileage-wise.
But here’s the thing–the original house battery system (two 6 volt deep cycle batteries wired in series to give 12 volts, typical in motorhomes for years) is being chucked in favor of 2 Battle Born 12 v Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePo) house batteries, with amazing capabilities (about 2500 watts of power). Of course the lead acid starting battery remains in place. With a smart charger integrated inverter (probably a 3000 watt unit set up to handle the LiFePo type batteries) and LiFePo units requiring 14.4v or so charging, the original 80-100 or so alternator apparently is hard-pressed to keep up, and battery isolation managers are required to let them cool down every so often. I’d like to upgrade the alternator to something over 200 amps. Apparently some one makes a 250 amp unit for the Buick 3.8 motor. If I understand things here, the new high output alternator will do its thing as usual charging the engine battery at what, 13.4 volts? and the smart charger/inverter will divert 14 point something volts to the LiFePo house system. (Man, I sure hope this is making some sense). This small coach will not have propane anything–everything on board will essentially be electric–either 12 v or 110 v.
I’m a big enough boy to not go and pout if you tell me I’m nuts. I just need some expert counsel here before I go and make some expensive mistakes.
My gratitude in advance.
Do I need a bigger alternator to charge leisure batteries while driving
What gauge wire do you suggest for a 250 amp alternator?
Hey Brian. We ran an in-depth story on wire gauge/amp draw a few years ago. It should help answer your question with some detail. Click here to read it.
Hi i was wondering about a mclarren 12inch sub i have installed in a ported box well constructed solid box how ever what would u recomend as far as wiring it up parralell or series i have it at moment series wired amp powering it is a pioneer gm amp 2 channel what is a better amp for this sub and wiring preferred thank you
You DO have to worry about too much capacity in an alternator. This article is dangerously wrong. The problem is commonly seen in old vehicles. Here’s what’s going on.
Suppose you have a 37 amp alternator. You leave your headlights on and it barely starts when you come back to it. Or maybe it’s a stick and you push start it. The battery recharges off the alternator pulling as much as it can. At idle that’s about 10-15 amps. As you pull the maximum available current from the alternator the voltage sags limiting the current to what the alternator is able to supply. If you rev the engine the max current available increases and the lights get brighter. But still, the current sags a bit limiting the current to what the alternator can put out.(around 37 amps)
Even when the battery is charged though, that 10-15 amps at idle is not much. The head lights and the ignition may try to draw more. Turn on the windsheild wipers and your pushing it. Now add a parts store rebuilt alternator, or just one that’s 30 years old, and your actually drawing off the battery to keep the car running at idle. So you decide to take the plunge and buy one of those shiny new 200 amp alternators from the hot rod parts website.
You install it and everything runs great. No.more dimming lights at idle and the battery doesn’t run down if you leave it idling. Then one day you leave the headlights on while your in the store. You come out an hour later and fortunately, it cranks over a couple of times slowly, then catches and fires up. And suddenly, the cab is filled with acrid smoke and the smell of burning wiring. If your unfortunate enough to immediately rev the engine to help get the battery to recharge like you used to do before you replaced the alternator, wires may burst into flames or the alternator gauge may literally explode.
What just happened?
Its simple. The dash wiring in your vehicle was designed for that 37 amp alternator. It can handle the 37 amps that alternator might produce charging a dead battery when the engine is revved. It might even be able to handle 50. Maybe even 60, but things are going to start getting a bit warmer than you should be comfortable with. But that dead battery drew as much current as the alternator could supply. At idle, that alternator can supply perhaps 80-100 amps or more. (Not only did the power output get much better over the years. The relative amount of power they can put out at idle increased too) If you revved the engine up the alternator was able to supply the full 200 amps. Pulling 200 amps through wiring sized for 40 will have spectacularly bad results.
This isn’t what I’ve heard on the internet. I’ve done it. Its not pretty when it happens.
Thanks for the sick info putting a treadmill with a h.o alter an growing free like I’ll just leave that there… lol seriously thankful love good info madscientist 369
To anyone having issues with lights dimming.Yes..do the big 3 …yes…use the largest wire you can and make sure its oxygen free copper wire..no mix of crappy metals.MAYBE..install an audio capacitor…AND….if you do all that and STILL have lights dimming….switch your oem headlights to LEDs…they are WAY more efficient and as a result won’t dim…ive done it numerous times to numerous vehicles having issues..same results..happy customer…ALSO for anyone looking for 2006 ,7, integrated Toyota Avalon backup camera setup that they will say is not possible email me..there is one in my car right now working 100%….you are welcome..lol
Aaand…sorry…..big 3, plus a hi output alternator,two batteries and an isolator, and led headlights. If you are still having issues you might need a therapist..lol
Hello hi I have A 2002 z28 camaro with just a system upgrade always had a problem with all stock alternator I wanted to know if I upgrade to a 320 amp alternator and big 3 awg wire would that be to much for the Camaro or can I run it like that
I need a 24v 200Amp alternator for a prototype I am building, need it to be as small and light as possible.
Really surprised how difficult it is to get one unless you can provide a vehicle make and model.
Can anybody suggest a website where I can type in the above specirifcation that would then provide me with a list of cars to choose from?
Is small and light even possible for a 24v system? You only really find that in military vehicles, in fact it is an upgrade some private owners of humvees do to their vehicles.
Need to replace the $65 parts store alternator with the correct model. I have a Ford style kit car (Factory 5 Cobra Roadster) 331 stroker. No AC, no radio, no dome light, no backup light. I have Low and hi beam lights, tail and break lights, electric power steering. V belt and up and down (top and bottom) mounts.
I see 12v 200 amps $250 or 12v 85 amps $65. Is a Delco style alternator the same as a hi-output alternator? I’m guessing the high output high cost is the correct one!
Can you help me out here?
I had to send a alternator back from your brand name power master, because the holes did not line up! I added up the amps you give me 231 amps that my van needs, not counting any further additional ! But the 250 one wire six grove pulley, did not line up with the holes, it was basically a inch too short! The 12 o’clock and six o’clock has to be eight inch on my ford e350 5.8 engine! That is the reason i had to return it to Amazon!
I know this probably isn’t the place you expect to hear from a box truck owner, but I have a 2020 GMC Savana cutaway that I’m turning into an RV. I’d love to get some power back to my battery bank while driving (& top off as needed at idle). Is that something you can handle?