Driveline / Tech / Tech Articles

Quick Guide to Diagnosing Differential & Driveline Noises

We don’t know which sounds worse—car guys singing show tunes in the shower or a howling differential. While there is no help for our singing, we can help you diagnose the sounds coming from a differential gone bad.

Differential and driveline noises.
Image/Commons Wikimedia

A clunk, whine, or howl can signal a worn-out pinion gear, bad pinion bearings, or a faulty gear installation. Sometimes, the noise is not differential-related, but is caused by other driveline or axle components. This guide will help you match up the noise you’re hearing with the differential or axle component making it, or at least get you in the ballpark.

Noise: Howl while decelerating (gears previously quiet)
Cause: Loose pinion bearing preload

Noise: Howl with whir or rumble while accelerating at any speed (gears previously quiet)
Cause: Worn rear pinion bearing or worn gear set

Noise: Howl without whir or rumble while accelerating at any speed (gears previously quiet)
Cause: Worn gear set due to lack of lubrication or overloading

Noise: Howling while accelerating over a small speed range (gears previously quiet)
Cause: Worn gear set due to lack of lubrication or overloading

Noise: Howling after gear set installation
Cause: Faulty gears or improper installation

Noise: Low-pitch rumble at all speeds over 20 miles per hour
Cause: Worn carrier bearings

Noise: Whirring during acceleration/deceleration at about 10 miles per hour
Cause: Worn pinion bearings

See Also:
Ask Away! with Jeff Smith: How to Fix Driveline Vibrations by Adjusting Pinion Angle
Monday Mailbag: Solving Recurring Driveline Vibration
What is a Wheel Bearing & How Can You Tell if Yours is Going Bad?

Noise: Banging or clunking while making a turn, backing up, or rapid deceleration (like on a freeway off-ramp). Noise gets worse in warmer weather
Cause: Posi chatter due to improper lubrication; worn clutches or spider gears; improper assembly

Noise: Banging, crunching, or popping while making a turn. Noise not affected by temperature
Cause: Badly worn or broken spider gears

Noise: Banging or heavy clicking every two to three feet during acceleration and deceleration
Cause: Damaged or broken pinion gear tooth or teeth

Noise: Banging or heavy clicking every two to three feet during acceleration or deceleration, but not both
Cause: High spot or heavy chip on pinion gear tooth

Noise: Banging or heavy clicking every eight feet during acceleration and deceleration
Cause: Damaged or broken ring gear tooth or teeth

Noise: Banging or heavy clicking every eight feet during acceleration or deceleration, but not both
Cause: High spot or heavy chip on ring gear tooth

Noise: Clicking while decelerating from 20 miles per hour to a complete stop
Cause: Worn carrier case-side gear bores

Noise: Rumble or clicking that gets worse during hard turns
Cause: Bad wheel bearings

Noise: Driveline squeaking or grinding at any speed
Cause: Worn or damaged U-joints

Noise: Clunking when depressing the throttle pedal (takeoff)
Cause: Worn U-joints; worn spider gears; worn axle splines; excessive gear backlash; loose yoke splines; worn slip yoke splines

Noise: Clunk immediately after taking off from a stop
Cause: Worn slip yoke splines

Noise: Steady vibration that increases with speed
Cause: Worn U-joint or out-of-balance driveshaft

Noise: Cyclic vibration that varies in intensity. Intensity increases at a specific speed range, worsens during deceleration
Cause: Pinion angle too low (not parallel with front yoke on driveshaft)

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  3. Nice write up,
    I would like to include the (TC) transfer case to this board
    I experienced a sudden breakage when a loud burring grinding noise came from TC while accelerating thru first 2-3 gears under light load, avoidable by creeping slowly up to speed
    Engagement of 4WD eliminated the noise, except sometimes in reverse
    My 1997 K1500 had blown its TCs rear retainer snap ring on its NP243 (NP241) new proscess transfer case

    It is accessable by removing rear driveshaft (4 bolts at U-joint 12mm) and then removing rear cover of transfer case (four 15mm bolts) while still in vehicle

    You may want to empty TC fluid first to check fluid for metal shavings, or just expect a small amount to come out of back housing

    You should see remainder of snap ring in there, stock replacement at GM runs 8 dollars or beefy upgrade part (“TC Saver”) around 50 online ( I have broken two stock rings…)

    You may need snap ring reverse pliers to install stock option but not needed for TC saver

    Good time to clean and lubricate driveshaft and bearings. I believe a sticky spline on driveshaft contributes to this common breakage

    • Devin Neal Boas says:

      I’m having the exact same thing happening to my 1998 Silverado just replaced ujoints thought they were the problem the clicking/knocking has only gotten worse and I now have a vibration I never had before when I had it all took apart everything looked like new no shavings no wear or anything I’m stumped on what it may be the clicking/knocking is only at very low rate of speeds or idling in gear

      • Check your flex plate. Not real common but they are known to crack and sound like a engine knock or clicking. Considerably more noticeable in reverse. Bell housing bolts are known to back out a bit causing binding at the converter. Best of luck to you.

      • Sorry. Did not see the date of the post. Lol

  4. Major Flewellyn says:

    I believe I have a “Worn gear set due to lack of lubrication or overloading” issue. Do you think me checking for low differential oil, and if low, then draining fluid and replacing with new fluid will fix this problem? Or would I still have to take apart the differential and possibly replace parts?

    Thanks, Any information is appreciated.

    • OnAllCylinders says:

      Checking & changing the fluid is a great idea. Also, while you have the rear cover off you can inspect the gear set for discoloration due to low fluid and any abnormal wear patterns. If this exists, an overhaul is suggested before it lets you down. If there is no noise and no signs of wear or discoloration, fix the leak and refill with fresh gear oil.

    • DENNIS BACHTEL says:

      Hey bud i have a question maybe you can help me.. Seeing if your still on this forum..

  5. I have a 94 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4 liter 4 by 4, when I start accelerating my truck is fine but as I level out in speed around 30 to 40 miles an hour I get a humming whine from the floorboard that doesn’t go away until I come to a complete stop. Then when I accelerate it again it’s gone until I level out or hit roughly 30 or 40 miles an hour and then it starts humming again? Any help thank you

    • OnAllCylinders says:

      Noises are truly one of the more difficult things to diagnose on a vehicle. There are just so many moving parts and rubber bushings that by this time in the vehicles life (20 yrs) could be relaxed allowing things to rub the body; that it’s hard to know where to start. One suggestion would be to check worn motor and transmission mounts. If the noise is not there under power, but when you are cruising, these mounts could be allowing the motor to lay over to one side putting pressure on shifter levers, exhaust pipes, fuel lines or cables forcing them to rub on the body of the vehicle. Happy hunting!!

    • Did you ever figure this out? This describes my noise on my 2001 Jeep Cherokee. Thanks

      • Not sure if you guys figured this out, but I had two of these.(99 and 2000) for many years. The thing you are describing is the front drive line from the transfer case to the front differential. I took mine off(pretty easy), bought a rebuild kit of ebay I think, and did the rebuild. I drove it for about another 50k with no problems and sold the vehicle. This is a common thing in these and is not a huge fix. Hope that helps.

  6. Dear Mr David, I had a FJ40 year 1980, cluncking/cyclic sound heard when the vehicle in movement with any gear speed (1/2/3/4) and this sound pitch was not correlated with rpm, but the clunking noise was gone if I depressed the clutch OR let the vehicle in moving on the road without the gear in (no load to drive line)
    I had tried so many things, replacing all bearings in transfer case, gearbox, rear differential, new propeler shaft, new clutch…..but the clunking noise still happened.
    (the noise was at the rear side)
    I had replaced the pinion gears, side gears, shims, adjusting spacers, but the only parts that not yet been replaced was the ring gear and the drive pinion in the rear differential, it’s seem both were in good condition.
    Kindly give your comment on this problem.
    many thanks and best regards

    • OnAllCylinders says:

      Backlash is something you haven’t mentioned. On an older, high mileage vehicle the backlash will open up. This wider space between the ring and the pinion gear will allow a clunking type sound like you describe. A new gear set targets .006 – .010” of back lash. An older set such as yours would be acceptable at approximately .010 – .015”. Anything more than that may be a clunker!

    • i have a 1998 jeep wrangle that is doing the same thing. A very loud metal to metal sounding bang-bang-bang coming from right under my seat
      (transfer case area) in any gear, any speed, dose not increase with rmp
      goes away with clutch depressed, still there with front drive shaft removed or with back drive shaft removed

      • hey had that same problem on my 99 dodge ram and its a very common problem the chain inside the transfer case gets worn and stretches and jumps the teeth on the gear and makes a loud bang noise my truck only had 90k when i had to replace mine it mostly did it when i was giving it throttle

        • also when they are stretched the chain will actually scrap along the bottom of the housing causeing a metal on metal scraping noise

      • I also have a 98 jeep wrangler doing exactly the same thing you are describing. What did you have to do to get the noisy, whinning sound to stop

        • Benjamin A. Parsons says:

          My 2004 jeep grand Cherokee is vibrating and when it starts to vibrate I lose RPMs any ideas of what it could be

  7. Dear Mr David,
    many thanks for your fast response………could you send me the picture/photo of that ring gear and pinion gear? and How to measure the backlash?
    best regards

  8. I have a 96 chevy z71. I hear a grinding/whirring noise when i 1st take off from a cold start. It only happens when the truck is cold and its cold outside. When i turn it gets louder. It only happenes when the transmission is pulling it when im not giving it gas and when i do it goes away

    • OnAllCylinders says:

      When you turn the steering wheel a higher load is being applied to the power steering pump. With age, miles and cold weather it is completely possible that your power steering pump is in early stages of failure. You could try to flush the system with some fresh fluid but, by the time the noise starts it is generally too late!

  9. catherine simmons says:

    I bought our 2011 2LT RS Camaro brand new (74 miles), back in 2011, have had this vehicle checked numerous times due to loud clunk noise made only when going from park to reverse, at take off…, feels and sounds like universal joint problems (a lot of play), can you help me out with this one, cause the chevy dealership can’t find anything wrong, but it’s a loud bang noise, so it sounds like something’s wrong…
    Catherine Simmons

    • I bet it’s the but on your axles many of them had this . The fix is to add a washer on the end at rear hubs and torque to specs

      • The nut holding the axle to the hubs . Only happens when going into reverse mostly . Add a washer on the end and replace the nut and retorque

    • Automatic? Possibly neutral safety switch any issues with starting the engine with trans in (p)?

  10. Pete Alkema says:

    I have an interesting issue. I have a 1990 Dodge dakota convertible that very recently had all of the bearings replaced in the rear end. My mechanic said it was a carrier bearing that was making the noise I was hearing at low speed. The pinion bearings were replaced as well since the seal was leaking. So now all is almost well, except when I make a right hand turn with my foot off the throttle. It sounds like a gear mesh issue to me. My mechanic now says he thinks it’s a rear axle that might be causing this new noise. Is this possible?

  11. Hi, I have a 96 Jeep Grand Cherokee, permanent 4 x4. The rear wheel bearings were a little noisy so I set about changing them and whilst I was there I also changed the rear shocks and brake pads. All easy stuff and things I have done many times before. However, once back together it makes the most horrible of noises when turning at low speed and the inside the rear wheel judders. At first I thought it was a loose shock as it sounded like a rubber rubbing sound, so I tightened them, no use, I swapped back to the old ones, that did not work. I removed the hand brake shoes and all components as it sounded like the springs twanging, It made no difference, I have just opened up the diff again and removed the half shafts and changed the bearings back to the old ones, there is no unusual wear in the diff all looks fine nothing seems to have moved so I bolted it all back together and it has made no difference at all. I have never experienced this before.
    Does anyone have any ideas?
    Thanks in hope of a solution

  12. I have. 2007 Dodge Charger and when I’m at a stop than take off I hear a bump bump bump coming from the back and the car sometimes shakes as well during this happening. I would ask my be but he’s too grouchy please if anyone could let me know if it’s major ? Thanks

    • OnAllCylinders says:

      Because that car has what is known as “IRS” (independent rear suspension), there are a multitude of bushings and links employed to keep the rear wheels tracking straight down the road. Any one of these components could be loose/worn to the point you are experiencing excess movement under load causing the bumping you hear. Seek out a qualified technician to inspect and repair any one of these ailing parts.

  13. This was a huge help…. I had a whine while slowing down only…. took a video of the diff just to be sure thats where it was coming from! Check it out here

    Just as in this article it was the pinion preload that had loosened up!

  14. Hi I have a ln106 hilux and have a noise in the rear diff click/knock at idle in first gear about every 3 feet but only when going up a slight incline and goes when accelerate, drained oil no metal a little bit of black sludgy stuff on bung, it’s a lsd when I jacked back end up by turning one wheel other one turns the same way. Any ideas would be great
    Thanks Nigel

  15. Good day,
    2000 JGC, 4X4 4.0L, Here is the “clunking” noise I hear>

    1) If I am driving up hill, and want to speed up, I punch the gas and get a big clunk almost as if the entire underneath is “loose”

    2) I will be at a stop in say heavy traffic, let off brake, little or no acceleration and hard “clunk” upon first shift?

    I have replaced all rear end suspension parts, rebuilt trans, syn lube in diff


  16. No clunking noise but I do get a very annoying lurch , lurch at low speeds almost like the car hops till I push the clutch in or gas it hard

  17. 1998 gmc half ton 4×4 started making a vibrating noise increasing with speed then upon deceleration made a clanking noise that is now much worse. The drive shaft had play and now has none what so ever. U-joints don’t look bad but going to install new ones anyway. Seems like the problem is in the rear end but what in the rear end could it be. It’s a ten bolt rear end.

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  19. ryan wilson says:

    heres one that no can figure out yet. i have a 2005 ford e-150 econoline van. everything is fine when i first start driving but after it gets to temperature i get a hard rubbing noise. it only happens from a stop while turning and accelerating. if im going straight no doesnt matter right or left. it only does it when i hit the gas and turn.. if we turn the wheel and push it there is no noise.

  20. Hi,
    I have a 2003 2wd Chevy Avalanche. It has begun making an intermittent clunk/chatter noise at all speeds, the steering/speed is not effected but it sort of sounds like the chatter from an ABS system kicking on. Sometimes one “clunk” sometimes chatter. It sounds like it’s coming from any given quarter of the vehicle. Sometimes it can be felt on the passenger or driver floor board. Took it to a local garage and they reported everything underneath as “tight and clean”. They lubed it all. Still clunking. It seems to be more frequent the warmer the weather. Just prior to spring we downsized tire size. The problem did not start at that point. Any advice?

    • OnAllCylinders says:

      From your description, look into replacement of the U-joints and/or the transmission mount. The original U joints are a non-greaseable design from the factory and often times wear the needle bearing without any outward signs. Also, the transmission mount over time has most likely relaxed and may be contributing to the driveline angle being off. Good luck and thanks for reading!

  21. Jesus im sorry you had to deal with that !!!! I’d demand them replace it. You shouldn’t have any noises if they did it properly. I like an idiot …. Accidentally threw my truck in reverse at 65mph… Breaking my left side spider gears in my diff… I went to the store bought a new set from ford plus fluid and a clutch pack (8.8 3;55 LSD) for a total of $450 replaced it in 45 mins and was on my way with no noises from the rear and after proper break in time I started cutting through tight turns from dead stops fast turns etc and not a single noise. Someone somewhere did something wrong in your rear end, best opinion have them break it open on your existing rear end and look for damaged parts, not just get a used or pulled one because now you started with your problem and adding someone else’s junk to yours so whatever was wrong in their rear end too… Also could just be an axle bearing so id recommend they take it apart and figure it out.

  22. Vehicle model and differential type would help more. If its limited slip there’s a chance they didn’t use the proper shim for the spider gear on the left side.

  23. ’89 F150 302, 4WD, automatic – Howl and vibration at all speeds but only with light throttle (as if just to maintain speed on a level road). Goes away on acceleration and goes away on deceleration. Any ideas?

    • I have a 1998 dodge van 3500 15passenger 5.2. I have a whirring sound from rear end more so in reverse but also at 5 to 10 mph then can’t hear anymore. If ANYONE knows of what it is please reply. I’ve changed fluid no metal flakes and also changed the trans mount. Ty and God bless.

      • OnAllCylinders Staff says:

        Could be several things Bryan, check some other likely culprits: wheel bearings, dragging brakes and/or pinion yoke.

    • I am having this exact problem with my 16 F350. Did you ever find the culprit?

  24. Have 2001 gmc 2500 hd have clunk noise in 4/4 high when acelerateing in drive new main ujoints and new aculator in front end noise sounds like it’s in the front sounds like drivers side got any ideas

  25. I really like your article. However I did not see my specific problem listed. I have a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee V8 with quadra trak II. The only time I hear a repetitive clunk, banging, slipping noise (can’t think of a better word) is when going 45 MPH or faster while accelerating. It sounds like it is coming from the front end. Looking at your article I am suspecting pinion or ring gear. However it appears to be RPM related versus speed related. When I put vehicle in 4wd LOW the sound appears around 25 MPH. Could this still be in the front differential or is it more likely a transmission or transfer case issue with the sound appearing to transmit towards the front of vehicle? Thank you for any advise you have.

    • OnAllCylinders says:

      From what you’ve described, it sounds as though it may be a transmission/torque converter noise. This would make the most sense since the noise is apparent in both high and low range operation.

      • I had a transfer case chain do the same thing. In hi and low. $85 for a molar chain and reasonable to change on own with limited experience. May not have to remove transfer case either, just rear axle.

  26. Hi everyone I really hope someone can help me out I have a 1999 dodge ram 1500 sport 4×4 it has 90k the truck is all stock I recently went to the store about a mile from home the truck was running fine no problems at all and when I left the store as soon as i got to 25mph I had a severe vibration I pulled over thinking I had a flat tire and they were all good and fairly new so I head back home and it was still there it gets worse the faster you go and when you leave from a stop it makes a clunk from the rear end I could only do 40mph and even then it felt like the truck was going to loose a wheel or break something it is horrible I jacked it off the ground and ran it in drive to 20mph and the whole truck shakes pretty violently and you can see the drive shaft appears to be bouncing at the yoke where it enters the t case you can hear a low rumble from the rear end and the whole bed of the truck shakes a lil more than the rest and when you let off the gas there is a high pitch bearing noise that only lasts for a second and goes away it sounds like its coming from the rear end and it only does it for a second when you let off the gas like a bearing is dragging so to narrow it down i removed the wheels no change I removed the drive shaft all the u joints are still good they are fairly new also I used a stethoscope and listened to the t case and transmission smooth and quiet I even took the housing off the t case to check the output shaft bearing it is still good and tight i grabbed the output shaft with both hands and shook it as hard as i could no play at all and the transmission mounts and motor mounts all good I did the same on the rear pinion no play at all I even removed the rear diff cover to inspect it and the fluid was clean and everything was tight and looked fine and the rear wheels spin pretty freely by hand and with the diff cover off and spinning the rear wheels the diff is quiet and everything seems to be okay but you can hear a slight rumble from the driver side wheel my first thought was a bad wheel bearing but the wheel does not move at all not matter how hard i shake it I can’t see a bad wheel bearing making my truck shake so violently and I checked and non of the weights came off the drive shaft and i cant imagine it getting bent or thrown off balance from idling throw a grocery store parking lot I have been working on cars for years and I have never came across anything like this any help I sure would appreciate I suppose a bad carrier bearing isnt out of question I just don’t want to tear anything apart that I don’t need to with it being so cold outside

    • Mines doing the same thing. Add when i stop the first time after the truck sits i get a real loud sqeel like a school bus beakes..then its the metallic whir whir whir…

  27. I have a Camaro, 355/turbo400/10bolt posi.
    At speeds 50 to 65 there is a slight hum that comes and goes, up then down about every 20 seconds. Very slight but a can detect it.

    I am going to relocate driveshaft 180 degrees or so and see if there is any deviation…what are tour thoughts. Sincerely

  28. I have a 1992 Jeep Cherokee Sport: 4 door, 4.0L I-6, AW4 Transmission, NP242 transfer case, Dana 30 front axle, Chrysler 8.25″ Rear axle and a 3″ Rough Country suspension lift. All suspension components are new (within 6 months/6k miles), vehicle aligned within the week, All fluids replaced.

    Beginning at 55-60mph there is this grinding/growling/humming sound that seems to be coming from the front end. The sound increases in severity as speed increases-so much so that I am not comfortable bringing the vehicle up to 70mph for fear of catastrophic failure.

    The noise began after all if the tie rod ends and their respective adjustment sleeves, track bar and upper control arm bushings-at the axle-we’re replaced and the vehicle was aligned. Nearly everything underneath the vehicle is new so I’m lost as to what could be causing this.

  29. Good day,
    hopefully someone can help me with my Ford issue.
    I have a 2011 F150 3,7 Ltr 6 cylinder (not ecoboost).
    At around 86,000 kms my IWE solenoid blew while towing a small trailer on the highway with a 4 wheeler on it.
    Power train was under warranty therefore I brought it to Ford where they replaced the IWE that controls the 4 wheel drive.
    After completion I left the garage and found that while in 4×4 the truck would emit a low humming sound so I brought it back and after several days they tell me it’s “normal”. So I let this go.
    Come late fall (cold here in Ontario), my Ford starts making this awful type of rotational grinding/humming at first start up when I am driving. I can feel a vibration under my feet and it seems like to sound is coming from directly underneath me. No matter the speed, it does this weird sound for a few seconds, stops then restarts. when I’m at a complete stop there is no noise, but once I start driving it continues and goes faster the faster I drive.
    After a few minutes that this happens it seems to cease, seeing that the truck is warmed up by this time.
    **Note: I have also tried twice to shift in 4×4 while driving and this sounds stops. When I go to put it back into 2 wheel drive it doesn’t seem to come back.
    This is now 2 trips to Ford and they say they can’t “put their finger on it” because it doesn’t lasts long. Today was 3 degrees Celcius and it still did the noise as I drove away from Ford…go figure.
    I’m at 98,000 kms and my powertrain is about to expire so any help would be greatly appreciated so I can bring it back….furthermore what should I tell Ford to make them pinpoint this problem as they never seem to take the “I have a noise” line very seriously.
    Thanks to all, much appreciated for any help.

    • OnAllCylinders says:

      After some research on the web, it appears that this problem has a lot of Ford dealers scratching their butts & heads at the same time. Most likely a drive shaft runout issue but, maybe a local driveline shop will do a better job for you than Ford!!

  30. Del Howery, Jr. says:

    On a 2003 Dodge Durango AWD (133,000ish miles) recently developed a low pitch growl at speeds above 10 mph. It does seem to be related to driveshaft speed. I’ve recently changed the L/H front CV axle and the front driveshaft CV joint. The noise started well after those repairs were initiated.

    I have also developed a similar noise on my 1996 Dodge 1500 (228,000mi). That one just started and got my attention when it did. Same type of activity.

    I read above that it might be carrier bearing, but I wasn’t sure the Durango had one. Depending on what the weather does today, I might slide under it and see what the scoop is.

    • Bruce D Saxon says:

      Well I just got a clunking in the rear end only. When I make a left turn I have a 2003 dodge Durango AWD what could this be a spider gear or worse any help would be appreciated

    • Budle johnson says:

      I have a 2000 model chevy Silverado 4×4 z71 and just the other day I got in it to drive it and there was a loud clicking sound coming from what sounded like the 3rd member on the drivers side. Any ideas? When I’m creeping in a parking lot or similar areas it seems to make a click with every tire rotation. I don’t hear it at high speeds and my truck doesn’t shake either at higher speeds. My 4×4 still works great. Someone told me that it could be trying to lock itself into 4×4? (I guess because the electronic 4×4 system for these earlier year models were faulty sometimes?) Any ideas?

  31. I have just had a replacement transmission installed in my 2007 gmc rear wheel drive 6.0 liter pickup it now makes a chain rubbing noise of and on I have only drove it 300 miles what did they do that could cause this new problem it never made this noise till I had trans replaced

  32. Bill Halberstadt says:

    I have a 94 Grand Cherokee Limited automatic, Quadra-Trac, with 5.2 L V8. I hear a whine from either the front diff or transfer case. The note varies with speed, as does the volume. Starts to be noticeable at about 45 MPH, and is very loud by 65 MPH. No whine in coast, loud whine with any throttle at all, little if any on deceleration. Fluid level OK in diff and transfer case. Not sure whether to start with the diff or the xfr case.

  33. I put a tremec 5spd behind a slightly warmed-up rebuilt 289 in a 65 mustang. It required shortening the driveshaft, which I had done at a shop which does work mainly on big truck driveshafts. Now, when I accelerate over 75mph, I get a loud rumble and a strong vibration from the rear of the vehicle. I assume that the driveshaft was rebalanced. Rear end is a 8 inch with 3.80 gear.

    • OnAllCylinders says:

      Usually when a shop changes the length of a driveshaft they will automatically re-balance the shaft. But we wouldn’t assume. We’d suggest you check to see if there are any weights welded onto the shaft; check your receipt or maybe even call them back and ask.

  34. can i retourque pionion gear bearing in 1996 3/4 ton dana 80

  35. Loved the information! I Have a 2003 Chevy Suburban 4 wheel drive. There is a howling noise constantly at all speeds. It gets louder at higher speeds and when i accelerate. If i turn the wheel to the right the noise goes away for just a moment. I know its most likely coming from my rear end but just wanted to see if I could get a specific area? (Pinion bearing, Axel Bearing, Whole rear diff) I was hoping i could avoid a whole rear end if possible….. The rear pan had a leak and was low on gear oil. I changed it, inspected it, and did not find anything major. No,big metal chunks, Just small tiny specs grouped on the magnet and the gears looked brand new. I filled it up and the noise remains. If you have an idea on what or where you would inspect / fix next it would be greatly appreciated. I really don’t want to spend 2k to have someone else do it but its exhausting with so many possibilities…. Any information would be greatly appreciated!!! Thanks,

  36. Brian Hedke says:

    I have a 2012 Silverado 4WD. I just bought the truck in January with 30,000 miles on it. Within a week the torque converter needed to be replaced. Chevy replaced and another 12 days later had to repair again due to a bad seal in the converter. I am now hearing a whining noise coming from where the transfer case is, right next to my shifter on the floor. The noise will not start happening until the truck is warmed up and moving for 20-30 minutes. The noise is faint, at first I thought it was wind noise until I realized where it was coming from. The quicker I go, the quicker the noise, as I slow down it slows down and is non-existent at 20mph and below. Had it at the dealer 2x and they found nothing wrong. I asked about loose heat shield or something rubbing against the wheel or drive train issue and they say no. It only happens when the truck is moving and at a speed of 40 or more t really hear it. It goes away when I accelerate and is there only when I let off the gas. It will not make the sound in park or neutral. And if I drive the truck for an hour around town at 30mph I will 9 times out of 10 hear nothing, has to be driven at a higher speed for a bit for the noise to begin. This is driving me insane. I know how sounds travel through a vehicle so pinpointing is very difficult. Any suggestions?

  37. Larry Gronmeyer says:

    Hi everyone,
    I think this is a diff problem, but I don’t have experience in that area so I’m looking for suggestions. 1998 Jeep Wrangler (235k miles). Rebuilt the engine (4cyl), the AX-5 tranny and the transfer case. Replaced all u-joints on both shafts. Replaced rear wheel axle seals and bearings. When driving thru 1-3, everything is normal. At top end of 3rd and thru 4th and 5th, I get an incredibly loud howl/whine that seems to be coming from the rear end. Hard to tell tho. When I let of the gas, it’s quiet. When I accelerate, it comes back. Also, if I put it in 4WD, the drive train is very quiet.

    Does this sound like a rear pinion bearing? TIA.


  38. Did you ever get this resolved? Just bought an ’07 Tacoma and after 1st long drive I get a driveline drone at certain highway speeds and can increase or make disappear by applying more acceleration or lessening. Hills seem to bring it on to like when driveline is under more load.

  39. That’s amazing that an experienced driveline technician can identify so many different problems from sound alone. It sounds like if you hear any kind of howling, it can be a sign that there is damage or an improper installation. I’ll have to try and remember these sounds and their causes so I know if I need to get my driveline repaired or rebuilt. Thanks for the very informative article.

  40. I have a 2012 Grand Cherokee Overland with ~75,000 miles. It has been used 3 summer seasons to tow our 26′ Travel Trailer throughout the SouthWest, PacWest and the Rockies. The vehicle runs awesome, shifts flawlessly, and in every other way acts fine. But I’ve noticed that when running at 75mph, as soon as I add a touch of gas, or the ACC (adaptive cruise control) does so automatically, I hear a “turbine-like” whine from the rear undercarriage. The rear passengers can definitely hear it the most however. As soon as the pressure is off the gas, it goes away. It’s not super annoying or anything (actually for a while it sounded cool), but I’m wondering if something is about to go wrong? I have always kept up with changing the transfer case, differential(s), trans fluids after each TT tow trip season-end. And upon each visual inspection the mechanic stated everything looked fine or that the fluid change wasn’t even necessary (although it was changed anyway). So what do you think of an occasional whine only at 75mph (or similiar high speeds) that comes and goes based on further acceleration, but disappears once it’s just having to maintain speed? (Like if on cruise control you would not hear it until climbing or recovering top speed after someone slow in front of you moves over and the ACC kicks back in to get up to the set speed). Any thoughts?

  41. Would metal shavings and light wear be signs of a bad front differential?

    • OnAllCylinders says:

      If you are doing a simple oil change on a high mileage axle and there has been no issues; a little glitter in the old oil can be expected and considered normal. Now, if you have actual shavings and some noises like whirring or grinding, its there’s a problem that requires further investigation!

  42. I have a 1999 grand Cherokee after you drive it for a hour it makes a rubbing noise for the passenger side of vehicle.what could this be??

  43. I have a 2007 Jeep Commander 4.7 4X4 that has a significant howling noise/low vibration once it hits 30-35 mph and then goes away at 55-60 (or the road noise drowns it out). I feel it in the driver side floorboard at its worst. It was under warranty and they replaced the front differential and axles(3 times!), transmission and transaxle as they assured me this is where the noise was coming from. Noise is still there. Any ideas?

  44. What about this one: Toyota 75 series with lsd: a kind of not too loud, medium pitched bearing (?) noise that occurs after about 15 minutes on the road (when car is warmed up), in second gear and up. Comes from rear, stops when foot is on the clutch. Sounds like metal bits whirling around in/on metal, turning, like a loose pulley noise… Does not increase in pitch or intensity. Rear diff also tends to get rather hot. U joints all greased and no play. Had pinion seal replaced about 6 months ago. No oil leaks, axle oil consistency looks normal I think: translucent greenish, with ever so slight greyish tinge. Breather was blocked before but unblocked it recently.

  45. Vehicle in in question: 1994 Grand Cherokee limited Awd, V8, automatic.

    2inch lift, 31’s.

    Senario 1:During acceleration through first gear no howling/roaring sound, like a wheel bearing. After gear change into secound sound appears and stays no matter what speed, unless under 15 mph.

    Senario 2: During hard acceleration no noise. Once up to speed and off full throttle noise appears.

    Truck has new, bearings and races in the front differential, new wheel bearings, and new front axles (I broke the previous ones). Also had this noise previous to me destroing the transmission, as well as after new transmission.
    I first bought the truck with this issue. I took apart the front differential to find no wearing signs on any of the bearings except the inner pinion bearing and race. I replaced all the bearings and races while I was in there. No sound. A week passes and sound comes back. Took apart again, this time no wear on any of the bearings or races. I am at a loss.

  46. says:

    I have a clicking sound in the center area, sounds like coming from the u-joint areaof my 2002 Chevy silverado 1500?

  47. I have a 99 two door tahoe makes a clicking and rubbing noise like if its cuming from the brakes changed the brakes its only makes the nosie when u back up and turn also changed the pin yoke.and axle bearings still makes it what chold it be

  48. L. R. Earnest says:

    Howdy. I just left the tire shop (had a flat replaced on my driver’s side rear wheel) and I noticed when leaving the parking lot when I make a right turn, I hear a “clunk, clunk, clunk” sound from that side, rear of vehicle. I never heard that noise before, so I am at a loss as to what it might be. Also, prior to this tire repair, the noise was not present. It’s a 1969 Camaro, 3:73, non-posi rear end, 10 bolt, 8.2″. Many thanks if you can help…

  49. I have a 2009 Nissan Altima Coupe 2.5L engine. Its making a rumbling noise in the front passenger side. The noise sounds like the rumbling you get when you are about to pull over on the shoulder on a highway (best I can describe the noise). Was told it was wheel bearing so I replaced it and it is still doing it. The noise happens at any speed when I am driving straight and gets slightly louder as I turn to the left. When I turn right the noise stops and as soon as I straighten out the noise is back. it gets louder as my speed increases also. Any ideas on what it can be.

    • Sorry correction it makes the noise on the front driver side not passenger side.

      • OnAllCylinders says:

        Apologies for the delayed response, Luis. We’d recommend a call to the Summit tech line at 1-800-230-3030 as there will likely be some follow up questions.

  50. Matthew Thompson says:

    2006 chevy 2500 HD work truck 2wd 6.0 gas. Loud whinning noise after about 40 mph but only on acceleration. As soon as I let of the gas the noise goes completely away. Any help in this matter will be greatly appreciated. Thank you

  51. Christopher Craig says:

    I have a 2002 dodge ram 1500 slt 5.9l 2wd and i just now started hearing a loud ckicking sound when i switch gears into reverse and drive. It sounds like it’s coming from the rear.
    Any help would be very apprecoated.

  52. 2000 GMC Yukon XL 1500.
    Fresh Fluid and Gasket in the Rear Differential. When cover was off, no shavings were indicated. At very low idling speeds (forward or reverse, and this happened before the fluid change also) there is a sound similar to an exhaust dragging. I can feel it in the floor boards. There isn’t any play in the driveshaft and everything seems tight. I don’t know what could cause this. But any help would be appreciated.

  53. KIMBERLY KING says:

    2007 Ford Edge, bought used for in home buisness, but then was hardly driven. Now when I need to its making a loud howling noise, bangs when you drive forward and when going in reverse. Prior to this issue & last time driven it felt like it was about to stall out when stopped and taking off from a stop. I had the oil & brakes changed, parked it for 4 months. Went to drive it the other day & now this.

  54. I just had my both front CV axles on Jeep Cherokee today but it still makes a clicking sound when turning right and left and when I go down a hill, I’m the three car back than slowly roll forward than starts clicking in center under middle of Jeep under radio. Could the center u joint be causing this? What else could it be?

  55. I need some help.. I have a 2012 jeep patriot latitude.. When im pulling out no noise until i hit about 5 mph and only continues until i hit 20mph in front end then goes away.. Does this when i slow down and start to accelerate but just between those speeds.. Its a rubbing vibrating type noise.. Checked for play in front wheels and nothing.. Does anyone have any idea what this could be.. Pulled tire off and replaced with my spare just to see if it wss tire.. Couldnt get that lucky and checked and made sure all tires had same amount of air.. Any help please?!?

    • OnAllCylinders Staff says:

      If you’ve eliminated tires, did you check your break pads? It’s quite possible that your disk brake pads have gotten stuck in the retaining channel thanks to gunk build-up. That prevents them from fully retracting with the caliper piston and, especially with floating-type calipers, can keep them in contact with the rotor.

      You said you’ve checked for wheel play, but your wheel bearing could still be the issue. Does the noise go away when you turn (slightly) to the left or right? If so, it may be the bearing on the opposite wheel.

      We assume you’ve done a thorough investigation of the wheel and chassis, checking for things like loose splash shields and bent brake shrouds. Since it seems related to vehicle speed and not engine RPM, the options listed above are some likely culprits.

  56. I have a 2013 Camaro. I get a loud clunk when stationary switching between park and reverse. It also clunks while gently accelerating and decelerating. Generally this only happens at lower speeds – I’ve never driven the car hard either. If I stop, I get a clunk just before stationary, unless I flick to neutral and stop that way. When I come out of neutral, the noise goes again.
    There is some play in the differential. With the car jacked, if I wiggle the rear wheel, the wheel clicks as does the differential.
    Any ideas?

  57. Pingback: Video: Identifying Noise from an Automatic Locker Differential - OnAllCylinders

  58. I have a 2013 Jeep Patriot Latitude. Today, it started making a popping sound when I left work. It is coming from the left side. Can feel the pop under my foot and hear it. Is consistent except when going up a steep hill when it doesn’t pop. But will continue when going down a hill or on straight roads and in curves.

  59. Thomas White says:

    Hey buddy! I have a 93 GMC sierra Z71 off-road 4×4. It’s a six lug, 10 bolt cap,342 gear ratio. When i accelerate, I hear a loud grinding like noise. After picking up speed, then it goes away. What could my problem be? We’ve changed the rear end and still hearing and having thd sa.e problem. I own my business and had to cancel appointments, due to this issue.

  60. Amanda Elliott says:

    I have a Jeep Grand Cherokee 4×4 with the 318 in it and it has this rattle can sound coming from the passenger tire it’s random between 50 and 60mph but at 70 it’s constant and my fiance just replaced 4 tierods and steering stabilizer the noise started when we changed the breaks it also does it when we hit bumps also our oil keeps disappearing but it’s not burning it and there is no trail when driving sometimes the check Gage light comes on but we just replaced the solonid for that but still does it often

  61. Thanks for pointing out that if your truck’s driveline is grinding while you drive at any speed, it’s probably due to worn or damaged U-joints. I’ve noticed my truck’s driveline has been making a grinding sound almost constantly, regardless of the speed I’m driving at. I wasn’t sure what the problem could be, so thanks for pointing out it’s probably the U-joints!

  62. I have 99 dodge ram 1500, 5.9. sound coming diff , sounds like brakes are hanging up but only when driving forward, in reverse there is no noise. Any thoughts?

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  64. 1997 chevy 1500 4×4 with 210,000 it was my grandads truck and he bought it new, I got the truck since I took care of him for the last 5 years of his life. I started driving the truck when it had 70,000 on it. Never mudded never abused and always serviced the truck because I didn’t want it breaking down taking him to the Dr. and now he is gone I drive alot of highway miles for Dr. appointments of my own. Last service I noticed the front drivers side axle shaft seal from the diff leaking, very little movement in the axle and none up or down just a small amount of movement. Diff level full and in the last 2 or 3 hundred miles I’ve noticed a clicking noise as the truck moves forward or backward, I’ve checked the hubs along with the CV joints and there don’t seem to be any play or noise from them. The noise seems to be more pronounced as time goes by and seems to be on the drivers side. The faster I go the faster the click is. Sounds like a rock or nail in tire but it isn’t. Since there is a small amount play and leakage where the axle goes into the diff could it be the needle bearing behind the seal or maybe a bearing starting to go out in the hub. I can replace both of them myself but if it’s in the gears I wouldn’t attempt to do anything like that. I know my limitations but with medical problems and prescription costs I’d like your advice before going to a shop because I wouldn’t trust any of them to tell me anything other than everything needs replaced just to repair a minor issue. Thanks

  65. william Macwithey says:

    I have a 2003 gmc 3500. I have a loud hum when i get to 30mph and up.I cant feel it in the steering wheel but I can feel it in my feet. It completely goes away when I turn right. I put a new hub assembly on the left, (driver side) almost 30,000 miles ago. I replaced the right side (passenger) after the noise appeared. I have replaced both cv axles and outer bearing on driver side. I removed the cv axles and drove the truck. The noise is still there. New u joints front and back . new center support bearing.
    I then drove truck and same noise is still there. When I had the cv axles installed, it was much worse if I put it in 4×4 mode. I started looking at the rear at this point. I had a bad axle seal on the right rear that was letting oil get into my E brake. I noticed that I could wiggle the rotor a little bit I replaced the axle seal and the outer bearing and changed the rear diff fluid. I did not see any damage to any of the gears in the diff, I reassmbled and put new oil in the diff, I had no wiggle any longer. Everything felt fine after I put the right rear axle back in. I put new gear oil in the rear diff and test drove it. I still have the same rumble and it still goes away when I make a right turn. I cant hear any noise at all when turning right. Do you think I may have gotten a faulty wheel hub assembly when I replaced it? When I turn right it is putting more load on the left side bearings and I am wondering if that will quiet that left side down a bit. I am going to try installing the hub assembly that I took off of the right side onto the left side if I can find where I tossed it. At this point I know it cant be the front diff because its not turning. It cant be the cv axles because I took them off. I dont think it can be the right rear axle because Ive gone through it as well. It just seems very odd that a hub assembly would go bad after only 30k miles or so. Have you ever heard of this happening? I bought it at NAPA and they usually have really good products. I thought It may be an issue with the drive shaft but the noise goes away turning right. The noise going away has me really stumped. I tried spinning the wheels while jacked up but I cant hear a thing while doing that.
    What do you think? Im about to go crazy and running out of money to spend on this thing.

  66. I have an issue with my 2002 Isuzu rodeo sport with only 120k miles, and we just replaced the exhaust ($1.323.58 to fix) thinking that was the issue.. Well when i’m going up a hill my speed starts to drop and it makes a jerk like bog when i try to floor it to go. I don’t understand what’s wrong with it, and i’ve been to 3 places now that can’t figure it out. Please let me know!

  67. kathaleen sembach says:

    2002 chevy tracker zr2/ when you get in vehicle there is a thud,not running.if you bounce or move it will thud,so i got out pushrd on side of vehicle in rear and can make it thud,no problums when driveing.its no the spare tire on the back or anything in vehicle moveing around, iam 73 could use your advice.
    thank you,kathy

  68. Kellycatwork says:

    Hello, first time posting so please be patient. I have an 05 dodge hemi 5.7 (not 4×4) with 250,000 miles. Squealing noise coming from the front when turning the wheel BUT only after the truck has been driven for at least 20 miles. I really notice it when I get to work (60 miles) when I pull into the parking garage and make the turns, right or left. It is a deep sounding squealing noise, almost like rubber rubbing on rubber. I thought it was a bad bearing in the wheel hub because one side was hotter than the other after driving but obviously it is not because it is still doing it. We recently replaced the sway bar, shocks, upper and lower ball joint (driver side) and now the passenger side wheel hub. No steering issue. Any help would be appreciated. I searched through the forums but could not find one that related to the squealing issue after truck is hot. FYI – does NOT do this when truck is cold or when I first start driving it.

  69. hello, i have a 2012 Jeep Liberty. Bought it used & have owned it for over 6 months. It just recently started making a rhythmic thumping or banging noise (best way i can describe it is, sounds like i have run over something fairly large and it is stuck in my rear passenger tire) it will start when i am going anywhere from 30-60mph, and for a while the noise would completely disappear once i switched from 2wd into 4×4, but last week i noticed it is starting to continue when put into 4×4 very faintly. I thought maybe my wheels were unbalanced because my the rim on the rear passenger side where the noise was coming from had lost it’s weights, but about 3 weeks ago i got brand new rims and winter tires and the noise is still happening. It also will go away when i apply brakes and slow to under 30mph. I can do basic mechanics, but i feel this might be out of my skill range… im worried about taking the transfer case apart, cause i might do something wrong and miss a step re-assembling but i cant afford to take it to a mechanic right now. Help!

  70. Fermin F GARZA says:

    have older 3:42 rear end maybe 85 model humming at 30 miles prhr. after that no humming any idea

  71. Mariana C says:

    Hi I hope there are still people responding to comments on this post. I have a 2006 Dodge Ram. I have owned it just short of a year so I still owe money on it but I have had a few issues since the start. Long story short I have had the fuel pump, right sway bar, left drive axle, muffler and a few other smaller components repaired/replaced. The mechanic I found and trust gave it a clean bill of health a month ago but now I hear a singular small clunk on the right side when the wheel is turned all the way and making a slow turn as well as a new squeaking sound when someone climbs into the front right passenger seat. I just want to make sure it isnt a safety issue before taking it to the shop because at the moment I dont have much to spare on car repairs this month.

  72. Hi…have 1990 Ford (carbureted) 5.0 mustang engine with t-5 speed trans……connected to a ford 9 inch…rebuilt diff.(3.00 with posi) no,did not replace axle shafts nor axle bearings ….looked like and checked out good…so reused….had a new drive shaft made to correct length ( upon buying this vehicle realized that drive drive shaft was in the area of 1 inch or so to short….with new drive shaft also had new ends installed and new u- joints…..BUT …..NOT the transmission end slip yoke…again SEEMED ok…..the transmission is older…a 1984 mustang t-5… to problem….when taking off in 1st ….it clunks…from what I’ve told you…could it be possibly assumed that the transmission slip yoke along with the transmission shaft could be worn enough between the two that there is the possibility of there being the clunking problem?…..that there was enough miles driven on the car from the previous owner with that too short of drive shaft started the problem……I knew when I bought the car that the rear end was tore up(and it was) and realized drive shaft was to short when we did some checking while in process of fixing the rear end…..with all that being said…..what would you say or suggest…..hope I was concise enough for you to get my “drifts”……thank you in advance……

  73. ClunkerJerry says:

    I have a 2016 Silverado Ext. cab 5.3. I am getting vibrations at 70-80 mph. Thought it could be the wheels but had them balanced and new tires. still had the vibration and could not feel it in the steering wheel. It shakes the entire truck. Had the tires/wheels balanced again by a different shop with the same results. Now I am getting a clink every once in a while when coasting down hill or decelerating. I checked rear U-joint and and velocity joint up front and no play. It seems like there is excessive play on the yoke going into the differential. How much play should it have and would this cause the vibration and clunking?


  75. Denzil Fulton says:

    2012 Kenworth, grinding, clunking sound after everything is warmed up on hwy. This noise only happens under a load and @ slow speeds, under 20mph. We’ve replaced front bushings, carrier berrings,been through both rear ends…. still have that noise… what advice do you have?

  76. I have a 2012 Nissan Rogue with about 139K miles. When I’m turning the car around (so mid to hard turning), it sounds like a goose squawking underneath the car. The sound is coming from the middle. I would guess under the back seat or further towards the rear. It only happens when turning in either direction. If I press the brake a little (still giving gas) it seems like it might ease up very slightly. The sound reminds me of squawking brakes but my mechanic went over them (cleaned/checked rotors, calipers, etc.) He said I need a new U-joint and they’ll try changing the differential fluid but he doesn’t think that would cause that particular “goose” noise. All the guys at the shop are stumped. They don’t want to send me to the Nissan dealer knowing it’ll cost a fortune. I bought the car used; still making payments; had to have the transmission replaced last year. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I’m working and taking care of my sick husband so I’m trying to be efficient with time and money. God bless all you folks who are helping others! Thanks for your consideration.

  77. George Franz says:

    I have a 2001 Ford F350 with the Dana 80 rear end on it. I’m not sure where my noise and Shake Falls in on all the categories, so I was hoping you could help me out.

    The problem I have, is the rear end will start shaking with like a kind of grinding type whirling sound Coming from the rear end. The noise and the shake will stop as soon as I let off the gas then I’ll accelerate it’ll start up again randomly, but stop as soon as I let off the gas. There’s play where the drive shaft goes into the rear end, but I’ve been told that a little bit play is normal I don’t have an excessive amount of play but it is they’re up down and right to left. It just started and, so my plan is to drop the driveshaft check the bolt and probably pull it off and check the partition plate, and bearing. If you guys have any other suggestions about what I should check let me know

  78. I own a 2000 Ford Expedition and while I’m driving (especially starting out from a complete stop) my front passenger wheel slips…. What’s wrong with it?

  79. Have a 2003 Chevy S10 truck and it’s howling and making a vibrating noise and I can feel it in the Stick of the manual transmission what could be the problem

  80. I have a 2003 4 door chevy tracker w/4×4 wheel drive, making a grinding noise underneath in the middle on passenger side and every 1oo ft. it clunks. how can I tell if its something w/ the drive shaft or the rear wheel bearings.

  81. very well written and informative. I’ll be tracking down my own noises with this guide. Thanks for taking the time to share so others can benefit.

  82. I have a 2001 f150 that has ahowling noise after 20mph. It does it all the time even at accelerating or coasting. No matter what. It was low on fluid so I topped it off but don’t see any visual leaks. What could be the cause?

    • I have a 2003 Ford Expedition that does this same exact thing. Engine runs fine, no issues switching gears and the RPMs are not affected, but after reaching 15-20 MPH there is a noticeable whirring sound. It almost sounds like a second engine running. Did you ever figure out what the problem was? Any help is appreciated.

  83. Laura Casey says:

    I have a 2004 ford explorer and i was driving it the other night and i didnt see the 4wd light on and now my abs light is on and when u drive it its making a grinding noise and it feels like the tires are trying to go the oppisite way…

  84. Kyra Wilson says:

    I’m trying to write up possibilities for my 89 chevy van g20 series [5.7L V8] for a thudding and vibration when I hit speeds 45-55 the pop snap sound stopped when I replaced both of my engine mounts. Itll screw with my acceleration and there was a badump/low pitch pop noise if I kept accelerating. I have to take my foot off the pedal for a split second for it to stop, it would stop acceleration and level my speed, sometimes lower it but if I press down on the pedal more, it would get louder, and worse vibrating that would move to shuddering. Also when I pull out of spots, seems like tight turns, I’ll be pressing the pedal and split second good starting acceleration but without moving my foot from its place she will quickly slow to a crawl which causes me to inch down a hair on the pedal and then all of a sudden there’s a rush and she jolts forward and then slows after 3-4 feet. I’ll let off a second before hitting it again and taking off pretty okay

    Replaced my fuel filter, tie rods, pitman/idler arms, switched to a universal bar instead of center link, brakes, tires, two oil changes, both engine mounts, realignment, wheel balance and fuel system cleaner. Transmission only has 74,000 miles and some decently new things in the engine [previous owner didn’t specify, tranny checks out, the only oil using part I have that doesnt get dirty. Two oil and oil filter changes and not even 100 miles commuting 55 max speeds 35 minimum speeds with my recent change and it’s starting to get dirty again and my coolant reservoir is caked with dirt. Pissed at the old man owner before me for letting it get this dirty and sitting it still without starting it or checking on it for over six months]

    After I changed out my second engine mount and fuel filter yesterday evening she drove fine with low thudding at 35 [sometimes] to 45-55 and ok acceleration.

    11am today I started her up and it took a minute for her to start and she was really loud and sounding like she was straining. Started driving and she was acting like she was low on tranny fluid, picked my sister up from school and went to the store to check the levels [not even a mile drive total] and they’re fine, tranny and engine oil good levels. Not as good of pressure in my radiator hose as before but I was close to low on coolant so I added more, forgot to check Haha.

    But i ran through all the gear options slowly and 5-6 times up and down, engine quieted a bit, still loud and lurches a little when I shift into reverse or drive but I expect that with older vehicles and brand new brakes.

    But as we were leaving, I took a left and started to accelerate with a bit of strain from my van and all of of a sudden a jolt and pop [take misfiring, water it down and muffle it] from the drivers side and during that noise I had no acceleration, let off the pedal smidge for a second before moving it back and 4-5ft it did it again [going up 15-20 mph trying to reach 45 right after I straightened out from the turn I took at 8mph] pressed the pedal a bit more after the oh shit moment because of traffic and shes really straining to accelerate and when I had to slow back to 35 there’s was very light rumbling/stuttering.
    I had a lightly more trembly idle than what it should be the day before and then today while sitting in the parking lot working on fluid levels, it was a bit more rough and you could feel it a bit more in the steering wheel. This is all just after my last replacements being my passenger engine mount and my fuel filter

    This forum makes me think it’s the pinion and carrier bearings along with possibility of pinion angle being too low, POSSIBLY worn gear set, and very very light on the slim probability of the slip yoke splines
    Also thinking fuel injector, cv joints/axles [these wouldn’t explain the clunking though], transmission mounts, and possible 3rd engine mount

    Help :c I’m used to late 90’s Jeep cherokees, and since I can’t see the engine very well at all from a popped hood, I’m very confused about what it might be.

  85. Brian North says:

    Yes, I just had my ring and pinnon along with inner and outer bearings replaced in a 2010 Chevrolet Z71 and at first the noise was less but after driving it for about 10 miles the noise increased again just like it was prior to having a shop repair it. Is this from faulty installation, they wanted me to drive it for a few days when I went back and told them it was still making a noise

  86. I have a 2013 dodge charger srt8. I’ve been hearing a popping noise coming from the passenger side rear at idle. It will start off slow in tempo but gradually speeds up. Once it stops after a couple seconds it will start all over repeat itself. It does this after every time i start up and sit in idle for a few seconds. Does anyone know what might be causing this? The exhaust system is fine and the hangers are well intact nothing has any play. Any input would be helpful. Thanks

  87. I have a 2004 Dodge Ram 4 door 4×4 and I’m hearing/feeling a clunking noise from n my rear end it has been doing it for about 20 k miles lol the truck has 127k It does it when I’m taking off then it don’t do it on the road any suggestions gladly appreciated thanks

  88. I have no comments for the above issues, but can you please comment on my problem and send me an email directly please.

    I have a 1998 Toyota Tacoma 2wh drive,automatic, 2.4L, standard cab.

    1.When the Temperature is 65 or less I hear a clanking noise underneath the pedals and seems to be in the front part of the truck. The noise starts when I decelerate and stop after a 30-100 feet. After I stop and accelerate again, I can hear the same clanking noise for another 30-100 feet or so. After it warms up it goes away.

    2.I did go over a dip the other day and the truck swayed back and forth over this dip; it was warmed up; in hot weather and I noticed the noise started again and lasted much longer… several miles and was not as loud.

    3. I had the rear breaks and shocks changed recently, cushings,
    front wheel bearings are good. Front breaks are good.

    Any ideas?

  89. Hi, I have a 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 2wd SL6 4.0 and it just started doing this yesterday, but it makes a screeching, whistling & clattering type noises all at the same time while in motion/driving. It also makes a slight clicking or popping type sound every once in a while when turning the steering wheel in either direction. It doesn’t do that much, just every once in a while but the screeching/whistling/clattering noise is all the time while in motion. It seems to sync with the acceleration of the vehicle, like the faster I go in it, the faster the noise gets. And it seems to also be affected by any type of bump or shake produce from the road while driving . please, can someone help me figure out exactly what this means?

  90. I have an FJ cruiser 2015. I am not sure what you refer as whinning or whirring noise. But it increases only when accelerating only. No change when turning. No noise otherwise.

    If I lubricate can I buy some time to fix. I have money problems right now.

  91. Hi,
    I have a Toyota Corolla 2005 model. A month ago, my brother-in-law drove the car and ran into a pothole that burst the front right tyre. A few weeks after the incident, I started hearing a whining noise and vibration when decelerating. I took it to a mechanic shop to diagnose the problem and several parts were checked from the wheel hub, to the axle and driveshaft. After changing the wheel hub, the problem persisted, so the mechanic concluded that the transmission bearing is bad. My question is: does a bad transmission bearing causes the brakes to misalign with the wheel? I often hear a grinding noise whenever I engage the brakes.

  92. my 2001 chevy tahoe 4×4 when im drive slow or fast is making a metal to metal loud pop almost as if my wheels are try n to catch on some thing can u please help figure it out thank u have blessed evning
    michael j.

  93. Angel Hollingsworth says:

    I have a 1993 Ford F-150 XLT. I recently had the motor rebuilt and installed it myself. Since then the truck starts to shake violently at around 35-40 mph and then jerks when I let off the gas pedal. It also shakes while idling after the initial warm-up. Any suggestions on where I should start to get this fixed? Oh also the entire vacuum system has been removed from the truck,could that possibly be the whole problem? Please help!!
    Thank you,

  94. Nathan Duncan says:

    Why does my rear axle twist when i tighten my lugnuts on my tire ? Plus alot of rattleing over bumps? Please help!

  95. Hope you can help me with this one. I have a clunk noise coming from the passenger front area of my 03 trailblazer. It is not in sync with the rotation of the wheels. More like 1/3 ratio slower than the motion of the vehicle. It is a constant while driving.??

  96. I have a 2015 Jeep Patriot and I have replaced all four wheel bearings from the noise I had I thought that’s what it was cause it sounded like a bad wheel bearing but still have the wining noise and it seems like when u put the vehicle in a bind or like when u are pulling out with the wheel cut all the way and push the gas it will jerk real hard sometimes it feels like the jerk comes from the rear of the vehicle or the front I was told it was the rear differential any help would be greatly appreciated thank u

  97. I have a 1966 Chrysler Valiant that I have replaced the slant 6 / manual box with a v8 small black and 727 auto. I have the driveshaft shortened, balanced and bearings checked. My diff has new oil. When I drive on the highway at 100kms and over I get a rhythmic thrumming that seems to be drive train. WDYT?

    • Have you examined your tires? Given that it’s a ’66 Valiant, I assume its a weekend cruiser and not a DD–so if the car is sitting for long stretches, the tires (particularly if you’re running bias plys) can deform, causing weird noises and vibration. If you’ve explored everything else, it’s worth perhaps rotating your tires to see if it affects the noise. Or, do you notice any change in the noise when you apply slight brake pressure at speed? A shoe or pad might be hanging up as well.

  98. 1996 Grand Cherokee 4L 4.0, auto trans. w/ 2w or 4w selectable drive. After changing into 4wd mode while in N (all the way I thnk) a single hard thud noise was heard from center console area. Then no power getting to any drive in any gear. Console shifter seems easier to move either direction F or R. Fluid levels OK, no leaks. Was in neutral I think during 2 – 4 w selections. Event happened at 2 mph in driveway on snow and ice. The thud noise was heard just as tires got off icy area onto pavement i.e., a bit more traction..

  99. Pingback: What is this noise from the front (tires or such) - Finance Money

  100. How about a loping rubbing sound that increases and decreases with acceleration while driving straight?

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