I was at my local car show the other day and I talked with a guy who built an inline Chevy 6 for his street rod. I was interested in the engine because it’s different. I’m getting tired of seeing small-block Chevys and LS engines everywhere. I don’t know much about these engines. Are they worth building for a mild rat rod?
Jeff Smith: There is a whole subculture of hot rods out there running around with “alternative” engines. While most street rods built before WWII were Flathead-powered inline fours and later V8 Fords, Chevrolet was always considered a very conservative company with inline six-cylinder engines with overhead valves. The biggest drawback to an inline six is its physical length and it will be smaller in displacement because it only has six cylinders. But for a lightweight street rod with an open engine bay, a Chevy six could be a great engine. We’ll go over some material for the Chevy 6 as it’s the most popular—but the AMC, Ford, Pontiac OHC 6, Mopar slant six, and Jeep engines are other obvious candidates.
If you’re into a dramatic-looking engine, consider the Pontiac Overhead Cam (OHC) inline six that came in the 1966-67 Tempest and 1967 Firebirds. These engines are very modern looking with the factory ribbed cam and front timing belt covers. There was power with this engine as well—in 1967 the 230-cubic-inch Pontiac OHC 6 was rated at 215 horsepower with 240 ft.-lbs. of torque, a Rochester Q-jet four-barrel carb, and 10.5:1 compression. There are parts available for these engines, although usable core engines are becoming scarce.
As we mentioned earlier, Chevy has built overhead valve inline sixes since 1929, but we will deal with only the later model engines used from 1962. This lineage of Chevy inline six came in four different bore/stroke/displacement combinations: 194, 230, 250, and 292 cubic inches. The largest was used only in Chevy pickups because of its taller deck height. The deck height allowed a very long 4.12-inch stroke compared to 3.25 for the 230, which is probably the most common of the Chevy sixes that you’ll find. The 230-cubic-inch engine came in mid-1960s passenger cars like the Chevy II, Camaro, Chevelle, and some full-size cars as well. It was rated at 140 horsepower with a one-barrel and 155 horsepower with a two-barrel carburetor and 8.5:1 compression.
All early Chevy six engines place the intake and exhaust manifolds on the driver side of the engine. This is not the optimal placement for the intake since the exhaust puts lots of heat directly into the intake manifold, which hurts power. But the good news is there are lots of parts available for these engines. Offenhauser offers a single four-barrel intake manifold, several companies grind cams, and there are headers available. Keep in mind that most headers will be designed for pickups and it’s probable that they may need tweaking to fit other chassis.
One odd thing about the Chevy six is its paired intake ports. Three common ports feed all six cylinders. Worse yet, a head bolt boss intrudes into these ports, restricting flow. We discovered a small company in Iowa called AutoWerks (12bolt.com), owned by Tom Lowe. Lowe has spent several decades working on these little six cylinders. He has developed a part called The Lump. Its name is descriptive, if not necessarily attractive. Lowe’s approach was to remove the large cast iron boss that surrounds the stock head bolt. He then spot faces the bottom of the port for an Allen head bolt and places an aluminum cover (The Lump) over the Allen bolt head to improve airflow. The conversion can be done on your workbench and the increase in airflow is significant enough to reward the effort. You can check out an installation video and all the particulars on Lowe’s website 12bolt.com. Lowe also offers a new intake called the P.E.S. Ram that is about the best looking Chevy inline intake I’ve seen.
For power, a mild street V8 will make roughly 1.1 hp per cubic inch with stock heads. The heads on these older Chevy six cylinders are not very good so making 1.1 is about the most you can expect. With a 230-cubic-inch inline six with a mild cam, headers, and the cylinder head work we’ve described, you could expect to make around 250 to perhaps 260 horsepower. Because the inline six crankshaft is so long, even with 7 main bearings it’s probably not a good idea to spin these engines much beyond 6,000 rpm.
Overall, internal parts are readily available and they’re not overly expensive so you could assemble a decent performance street inline Chevy six without draining your bank account. It might be a fun adventure and surely one to garner more attention than just another small-block.
If I remember correctly, the Pontiac OHC was based on the Chevy 6 cyl; plus I’m pretty sure they also had a 250 cid version rated at 250 hp with the 4 barrel and split exh manifold.
the four bbl Pontiac OHC 230’s had 207 hp, the later 250 versions had 215 hp for the automatic cars and 230 hp for the stick shift cars
It was a Chevy block.
The OHC block is not Chevy, it’s Pontiac block and has BOP bellhousing.
My name is Joe Bucci b as in boy b u c c i question when were mechanical lifters last used in the Chevy straight 6 in passenger cars
i have a 1968 nova 250 6 i want put into 1952 g m c i was wondering if i up date 4 speed s m 465 chevy will the 1968 truck 250 block the same as my nova block so i can buy a truck bell housing and put a sm 465 the belling will fit my nova 250
Yes, both truck 250 L6 and Nove 250 L6 have the same bolt pattern for truck and car bell housings.
I know this is many year’s later but maybe some youngsters will ask the same question in the future.
As I sit here thinking of the 300 six and gas mileage
I’m reminded of something
The old man did
He took an piece of conveyor belt and cut it to the size of the intake where the carb mounts drilled it to fit and the vacuum ports he only drilled two and epoxyed gromits in the hole for nipples for an old
Fisk carb one barrow mounted it and gained ten miles per gallon. The problem
Is the carb is hard to find and it take tons of vacuum hints not drilling all the vac ports
I have for the fun of it did this on a three sixty and it worked you have a time and a half learning to drive with the fuel the carb supply’s so your adjustments are full fuel and air ajust almost all open so tourqe is ok bus fuel consumption was great but I’m a speed demon but my other cars a Benz but I would rather drive my truck 300 and all but it get the same milage as my Benz but only one tank
we all know how small that is
So it’s lite on the peddle I have come to realize sixteen mpg is not bad for the pulling power and come to realize that the small tank in my 150
Has mad me feel gas mileage is crap but its more the lack of fuel you can carry and it make it worse then it is cause most our cars carry more fuel there for we fill up a lot less than the trucks about twice as
Much I am thinking of adding a bronco tank so I don’t have to fill ole banger up as often
PES, -Precision Engine Service – created the 1st bolt in Port plates -or lumps as many say. He created the intake manifold as you mentioned also. Tom Lowe has only copied what PES started years ago. Please let Clyde Norwood – owner of PES and Inventor of the port plates (lumps ) and mentioned intake manifold get the Honor of his work .
yes pes is the innovator not lowe…
Lowe did not copy manifold–he purchased all of Norwood’s stock and the molds too–Lowe OWNS the PES stuff
Hello. Yes, Tom Lowe did purchase Clyde Norwood’s products – PES (Precision Engine Service) patterns that make the Intake port plates, sidecovers, intake manifold, valve cover and adapter (to bolt on head and thermostat cover spacer.) However, as I mentioned before , Tom Lowe did not create the the Intake port plates (not Lumps!..LOL!), Clyde Norwood did….always wondered why Tom didn’t buy the PES Exhaust port plates? …I purchased 2 sets from Clyde…
it seems that Kay
Sissell “invented” the “lump” port idea and Clyde Norwood made the “bolt-in” version of the “lump”
Wow cool how do you find the plates for the 216 cu in Chevy six ?? $$$!looking for any help for the 216 cu in six Chevy ???$$$ really want to over due machine work on heads to max power but WHO can do it ???
I had one in a 1955 2 door chevy, The cam was wild, with 3 2barrel stomberg 97 carbs, but gas mileage was horrible around 6 mpg. It ran 6000 rpm’s to get horsepower, but rings don’t last long and constant setting the carbs so don’t backfire… Then we didn’t have ignition system we do now, but betting that would help a lot.
You can tri to put a shut off valve on one or two carbs
do i own the only 85 hp chev 6 cyl in the world?? (1953) panel truck
No you. Don’t !! I have a 46 Chevy panel truck 216 cubin about 90 hp but looking to install three two barrels on an offenhauser alloy manifold with offenhauser valve covers and Fenton headers with electronic max amp distributor a place in England makes titanium valves / push rods/ crank arms/ and there is I heard a (alloy) harmonic balancer to cut even more rotating weight ! Still hoping I’ll get this done I’m running out of time I know it as disabled vet parts are wearing ouy at alarming rate on me ! And cash is the holly grail ! But as an X bicycle racer I’m extremely aware rotating weight is the secret code !!
I have a inline 6 with a 3915 bore can anyone tell me what I have
A .040″ over 230, 250, of 292 Chevy — if the opening for the water pump is about 3/8″ to 1/2″ or so from the top of the block, then it’s one of the smaller two,,if it’s maybe an inch or more then it’s the 292….if the piston is dished then it can only be a 250 or the 292…230’s are the lower deck height blocks with flat top pistons. The 250 is the lower deck height block with dished pistons,,, and the 292 is the only raised deck height block, and it has dished pistons–all of this is assuming the pistons are standard replacement configuration, not hotrod parts.
I bought a sweet 56 Chevy 210 with the Blue Flame 140 in-line 6 with 1 barrel carb. I’m just wondering what a good cruise range would be for this car with this engine? I don’t want to have the engine wound out and whining all the time I know that hard on an engine to drive that way, yet I bought it for road trips? Please give me a clue as to what a good highway cruising speed would be for this car with this engine. Thank you.
Since the original engine in a 1956 Chevy was a 235 cubic inch, why would anyone want to put a smaller engine in place of it?
who is replacing the engine? Mr Fisher never mentioned replacing the engine
Could it be possible to drop a straight 6 into a 2001 dodge ram 1500?
When i was a young boy my father & i would stick 392’s, 413,& 426 Hemi big block Chrysler’s in First Gen Camaro’s & FirdFird’s,1967-70,just to be different,and these were only F-body car’s,i’m a Gm man all the way,and have built some wild engines,SBC-283,327,305,350’S,400,BB-396,409,427,454,even a old Buick Nail head 425,Chrysler 273 Commando,340,383,392,413,426,440,some pretty cool Ford engines,my last was a 1971 400 SBC-done to a 406 with all the right goodies,About 450 HP,My son and i put it in our 1984 3rd Gen Camaro,Anything is possible if you put your mind to it,why not go BB Chevy in your Dodge?Something really cool like a 396,409,427 that will turn heads,if your going to go with your s-6 Chevy,do you want fuel injection or carbed?good luck on your project.
Jeff do your homework, there are 250 sixes out there making 450 hp turning 8000 rpm all day
Frank, I’d really like to know more – can you be more specific than “out there”?
Check whats the folks in Argentina (South America) have done with those inline six engines.
Well over 400HP spinning at 9000RPM
Is this the frank from Sedalia Co.?
Wow do I need his help have a Omaha Nebraska Telephone and telegraph (lineman’s work truck ) mostly restored have 216 cu in Chevy six. Putting Fenton headers / three carb offenhauser aluminum manifold / offenhauser valve corners / 3/4 cam (crane) now I need a lot of help with the heads ( machine shop ) to port and polish / bigger valves/lifters/springs/ shave head/ bigger oil pump ?? Can anyone help me ????who cost ??
Need info on 250ci 6 with 450hp turning 8000 rpm.
I have a chevy 6 #FO53ISG. want it to be a 250. Is it?
Somebody told me that street six engines were the only ones you could balance perfectly. I don’t know much about balancing other than the obvious. That somebody was from England and he loves his jaguars
ask your buddy how did his perfectly balanced “street six” like life at 6000 rpm? due part to inherent inline design balancing can be dead on, but with the longer inline’s crankshafts they will experience “torsional vibrations” as these long cranks see themselves being twisted by the firing cylinders along their length and rebounding from it. old Jags, other British sixes, and earlier American sixes “enjoyed” this “phenomenon” by vibrating flywheel bolts loose and harmonic balancers OFF….longer the crank-less the main bearing count…the more crank vibes–the Chevy 292’s and Ford 300’shave real problems at 6 grand–some Brit motors have them at lower AND multiple rpm ranges and sometimes while on the highway a gear change is required or just a simple speed change to solve this damaging situation.
Run a good harmonic damper ati fisher or fluid damper and hp levels in article are low 12bolt.com videos on your tube have 250ci motors making 350+ on engine Dyno at 10.5-1 compression n/a turbo guys are higher…..
20 years ago, I bought a 1940 Chevy Coupe. It was stock with the 215 Babbit six. Duel carbs and split headers helped but it was still pitiful. I ended up building a mild 292, bored .030, crank .010, Ported & Polished, CompCams rockers, 270 duel duration Wolverine cam, Split Cast headers, 3×2 Offy intake with 5100 Holley/Weber. This motor really woke up the Coupe. coupled with a T-5 from a Camaro and 10 nova rear, it makes close to 300hp and a lot of fun!
Funny he didn’t mention the 250 & 292 much. Seems like there are plenty of them out on the market too. I have a 250 in my C10 which runs great and there are lots of parts available. I also recently purchased a 292, which I hope to build some day. Ford also made a big 300 six. I think those were mainly used in trucks.
yes 300 fords were only used in trucks3
Ford did put the 300 6’s in trucks, however, back in the day, the dealer would swap around engines to make the buyer happy. My parents bought a 66 Ranch Wagon (Galaxy wagon) new, came from the facotry with a 289. Pop wanted the economy of the 6 so the dealer pulled one from an F100 and dropped it in the wagon and stuck the 289 in the F100. That 300 inline six was pretty stout, I drove the car through HS and surprised quite a few people with how quick it was, and it would pull our boat effortlessly.
What is the latest year 6cyl that will bolt into a ’39 Chevy.
My understanding of the six is that they were used mainly in trucks. So in 1974 I bought a 1966 Chev belaire and the motor was a 292. I knew original owner and he had never changed engine. My question is would that have been factory or special order? I never knew the HP but I raced 283’s that never had a chance.
with their longer stroke and taller block 292 s were only used in trucks
How much horsepower does a typical 250 6cyl GM engine have from 1965?
Hey Dan, Do you mean the Chevy 250? It was introduced in 1966 and made about 150 gross (e.g. at the crank) horsepower and 125 net (at the wheels). Now, GMC had a 270 six available in the early 1960s, and it made between 130-140 (gross) hp. We found this website that’ll have more specs on the Chevy I-sixes.
I never knew they ever used the GMC 270 engine after ’62. GMC immediately went into using the Chevy 230 and 292 as pickup engines in 1963–I went to that site and as you can see by its dismal hp/torque numbers that it was the old design engine — not everything found on the Internet is always the truth
Hey Jeff, that 155 hp/230 with the “two-barrel” carb, I think that was only a larger single bbl Rochester like was standard on the 292 truck six–the camshaft did carry a different part number than the standard 140 hp/230, and they all had 8.5:1 comp. ratio
The camshaft would be different for a 292 because the distributor is in a different location than on the 194/230/250.
no the distributor stays in the same place–it’s the fuel pump that moved
292 Chevy has motor support placement different than 250
I have the 78 C-10. It came with 250-4.1, with the integrated head. that head is gone. I have collected the new head, and manifolds for the top… As I live In California, and our smog laws are a mess. I must pass the test. All I need are the smog air tubes… Any help?
Hey Anthony, unfortunately we couldn’t find an exact match, but maybe this will help: Here’s a list of Air Tubes made by a company called Standard Motor Products. You can filter it down in the lefthand column to find a few listed for the 1975+ Chevy C10, and a few for the Chevy 250 I6, but we’re not experts on exactly which years got which head–integrated or traditional. Perhaps one on this list will fit the bill?
Thank you for the fast reply. The tubes shown there are for the 300 ford I6’s. Which I may have to modify, not sure yet!
I just wonder why they are available for that motor ‘NEW’ and not the chevy 250 I6.
Look up the EN-Valve online. It replaces the standard PCV on the valve cover, sometimes with slight modification. It introduces constant vacuum in the crankcase. I installed a few on some dirty SBCs with great effect. Good luck.
I have a 71 C10 with a 292. I’m looking for the stock power steering pump bracket. If anyone has one or knows where I could fine one for sale I would greatly appreciate.
Hey Norman–after some research, it looks like there were some variations of that bracket between all the iterations of the I6 and its respective cylinder heads–so make sure you know which one you’ll exactly need. That said, there’s a company in Wisconsin called Davis Speed Equipment. Check out their website–they’ll probably be able to steer you (pun intended!) in the right direction.
Ok , I think I have the air tube problem fixed… I’ll make one! Another question I have is… You have the intake/exhaust manifold bolts. But on top of those are small “keepers” sort of horseshoe shape that hold the intake/exhaust on at the end of the bolts. What are those called, and where do you find them? TY
Are you talking about snap rings? If so, you’ll probably need a specialized set of snap ring pliers for them too.
But, since you’re referring to intake and header applications, we think you’re looking for a set of locking fasteners, which are designed to not “back out” after the extreme heat cycling an engine/exhaust regularly sees, to keep the header secure. They’re typically sold in sets–here is a one for the Chevy I-six.
Good luck with the build.
Paul, I located a factory ps pump bracket from a guy I know who was rebuilding his 292 so he let me borrow it and I took it to a fabricator who made me a duplicate bracket for my 292. Thanks for the reply. Norman
Clips. Or clamp plates. Make them out of steel channel cut on bandsaw and shaped with the “death wheel” – if you can’t find originals.
I have a 1936 chevy coupe stock car with a 250 chevy. The series we race in will not allow any intake manifold or head modification, and we can only use a one barrel carb. I want to build a new engine this winter and want to know what the best components to use to get the maximum horsepower. We. can. use any stock 235, 250, or 292 head but it cannot be modified. The short. block has no restrictions. Can you advise me on what I should use to build a high horsepower engine?
Mercruiser sold marine 250 ci i6 engines which were made by chev. They are built for performance to run all day at 4200 rpm, and my stock 1974 165 hp has an intake that can accept a 4 barrel, boosts hp to 190 – 200 hp With a lump head modification probably close to 230 hp, and still have plenty of room for more hp mods. These boat engines can be had all day long and the beauty is boat engines usually have very low hours on them.
The Flamborough Vintage cars ran under those rules and the hot setup IIRC was a 250 with a 194 head and Z28 302 pistons.
This is a little bit out of my area of knowledge, but essentially you are building a restrictor plate engine. I would do research around that, but right off the start, I’d run as much compression as you can – assuming that you are allowed a fuel that will not detonate. Compression adds power everywhere. I would also choose the thinnest rings I can afford – thinner is better – they seal better and drastically reduce friction – which is free horsepower. Since the 1 bbl carb will limit ariflow, I would look at maximizing cam timing within the rpm limit – probably 5,000 rpm. If for example, the engine speed is from 3,000 to 5,000 then obviously that’s where you would concentrate with cam timing. I would also flow test the head to see where maximum flow is attained and then place valve lift above that to maximize the time the valve is flowing. Also check for valvetrain deflection – how much lift are you losing. Check lift with a solid lifter and checking spring and compare that to the actual lift with the actual spring. The inline 6 uses a very long pushrod – almost 10 inches. Long pushrods tend to bend easily – so its’ worth investing in at least a 5/1`6 pushrod with a 0.105-inch wall thickness. That alone might be worth 0.010-inch of reclaimed valve lift – perhaps more. This also means running good rockers if they are legal and optimizing pushrod length for ideal geometry. These are just a few ideas to get you started. I would also spend a lot of time blueprinting the shortblock to create optimal clearances.
i was thinking of using a 250 straight six for an industrial engine ..i was wondering if they make a cam for these engines that would be all low end torque and not rev past about 3000 rpm
I just bought a 1953 GMC Suburban Carryall modified by Wentworth and Irwin,into a 13 seat school bus. I know NOTHING about these engines, can you point me to information? Thanks
My Chevy 250 inline 6 with an RV cam,
Holley 390 4 barrel, Clifford intake and headers and MSD distributor
I had a GMC 6 bored to 301, with a Wayne Head a Howard manifold with 5 Stromberg 97’s Fenton headers 3/4 cam in a 37′ Chevy Coupe. Best time in the 1/4 mile 12.96 at 109 mph. that was in 1966. Wished I still had that car now.
Pete that sounds like one sweet engine!
Back in the 70’s I bought a 1963 nova from an older guy who had bought it new. It had a bad 194 cube 6. I rebuilt a 250 cube 6 and used the 194 head to raise the compression, bored it 30 over, installed a mild comp cam, and the 250 HEI.It purred like a kitten. The nova had an air cooled powerglide transmission and 3.08 gears in the rearend. I put a bigger jet in the one barrel 250 carb, and used the 250 intake and exhaust manifolds with full length exhaust pipe and hush thrush muffler. The nova with run an honest 120 MPH on top end. A stock small block with a 2 barrel carb could not catch me. Even some big blocks in the full size cars took over a mile to catch me from a dead stop! Those were the days.
I have a Chevrolet straight-6 Senator Engine, I need to replace the rear crank seal. Do anyone know how to replace it. Should I remover the gearbox? I was wondering if the seal is a rope or 2 half seals? I will appreciated it if someone with a answer or a web link can email me. Tnx
My email: firstname.lastname@example.org
I have a 1966 Chevelle with the 230 engine. It appears to have a cracked intake manifold.
I have been offered a manifold assy that was removed, they say,from a 1980 292.
Will that fit a ’66 230?
I have a straight six cylinder Jeep . I have no compression in cylinder 5 and 6: the rest are fine. The valves appear fine and the rings are working too. Why do I not have any compression in 5 or 6 cylinders.
I would look at the head gasket likely blown out between the two cylinders.
Do a leak down test
Has the engine not been run for a long time? If so the valves may be stuck open, if only slightly. Suggest you take a rubber mallet and strike the rockers over the valves as someone else turns the engine over. GENTLY!
Where can i buy a remanufactured 1980 chevy 250 I-6 for my 1980 hyster fork lift? It runs on propane.
Stevesnovasite ( .com ? ) Has a guy with an I-6 maxed out. Much modified, and BLOWN. Has Dyno papers to prove his stated output. He won’t say what it cost other than “more than 10k”.
PS, my email address is REAL….
Will a 64 Nova 230 engine fit in a 66 Chevelle? The Chevelle has a 230 (Blown) with a 2 speed power glide.
Sure. It’s a straight swap.
I have a rebuilt 250 block, crank, and pistons, will my old 230 head work on the rebuilt 250 bottom end?
What parts are interchangeable?
Virtually everything will interchange.The only major differences between the 230 and 250 were stroke of the crank and piston pin height.Brackets, intakes, exhaust, everything else should fit, no problem.
Hey everyone, I’m working on 1980 C30 custom deluxe Chevy with the 4.8l straight 6 292 engine. For the past three days I’ve been going crazy looking for the secondary air injection manifold. I can find any other piping for v style engines but once I look into these straight six’s forget about it. So can some one please help me with either a diamond in the rough parts place or the info on best way to fabricate a new one. I’d personally eliminate the air/smog unit and pipes and plug the intake but were trying to rebuild it to complete orginality. If anyone can help me out I’d be greatly appreciative. My email is email@example.com thank you and god bless
rock auto parts online
What is blow back on a 235 straight 6?
I have an oil leak and my mechanic wanted to know if it had blow back as it would effect the leak and repairs.
Wondering I have a 1937 Chevy with the 216 six cylinder Will the 292 six cylinder fit in that car
It will physically fit Robert, but you will need to change the whole drive train.The ’37 has a closed drive line (torque tube type), and the later models have an open drive line. The 292 will not bolt up to your bellhousing.
I forgot to mention that it’s going in a 38 buisiness coupe
I have a 1950 Chevy Styleline Deluxe Convertible with a 216 ci. I would like fab motor mounts and drop a 250 ci in it, but was told I would have to move the radiator forward.Is the 250 longer than the 216/235?
No not longer if you use a flat blade fan you can match length perfect I’ve just replaced my 235 with a 250 engine mounts are different
250 engine is wider at rear
Big advantage not to much to fit gearbox to bell housing advantages 7 bearing main lighter and less oil leaks have fun
I would like some feedback on a1980 c10 short box. There is a inline 250 in it now which I think would be very cool built like the Argentineians do so I have read in the previous text hard to believe. On the other hand there is a 350 that is semi built 2101 performer stock heads 268 cam and headers sitting in the back of the truck I’m a novice but I like idea of a built 6 sounds like it would be cool what to do my wife likes hot rods any feed back…?
IIRC the high output Argentinian 6 runs on Ethanol. Getting gasoline with adequate octane in the US may be a problem. E85??? Possibly.
Build the 6 Dave! That 350 will probably make about 300hp as it is. You can get the 250 close to 300hp fairly easy. The key is a good valve job, lumps in the intake ports, a 4 bbl intake and 450 or 500 cfm carb, headers and a decent cam with about 210*- 220* duration.If the 250 has flat top pistons, great. If not cast or hyperutectic flat tops will work to about 5800-6000 rpms.Good rod bolts should be used too.This will make a good streetable engine that will sound good and run great in your truck. If your running an automatic trans, a small stall converter (2200-2400) will help add to your fun.
Could you give me the big end dimensions on the Chevy six crank and Conrod tunnel size Trying to find big end shells for English GM Vauxhall 3.3 engine was told one model of chev six was useable with small mod .it would be the smaller engine I think thanks Or tell me where to find it
try the australian 3.3 (202) GMH holden 6 cyl engine
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How stupid would it be to put a 250 head on a 292 short block?
no advantage same head
Hi Guys, I have a 1955 Chevy truck with a 1980’s 4.1 Chev straight 6. I do not have a lot of info on the motor, but I’m battling with timing. The carb has been rebuild too. I had it with a mechanic that did a bunch of tests. She has a compression ratio of 10.5 and according to the mechanic a wild cam as well. She is a 3 deg retarded now and running but has run on and a bit of pinging when pressed to hard. Is an fuel additive my best option? Colder plugs? Any advise will be great. I’m based in South Africa so my resources to spares are limited to the currency exchange.
I recently purchase a 194 inline 6 im looking for a transmission anyone knows what trans I can put on prefer automatic
do you still need to know?
The Inline Six Banger was a Lexington Automobile Engine . Durant Bought 30.000 Engines From The Anstead Engine Company in Connersville Indiana . Same Engine as Used In The Lexington Car Company here in Connersville Indiana . The same inline Six Might had been a Contenintal Engine Design .
for the best choice you have know the rear end rate
if the pinion size is 10-13 put on an o-drive 200 or 700
if is 15 and higher look for a 350
you guy are too cool. i’d love to do a little 230 chev with a manual speed
COOL I’D LIKE TO DO A 194 OR 230 AND GET LITTLE grrr OUT OF IT. WHERE DO I START???
Just trying to find out if a 1959 4speed tranny Will fit on a 1954 INLINE six 235 the standard is out of a 1959 pickup
I just rebuilt the orig. 250 in our 67 camaro .It needed a .030 bore to clean it up and I put 307 v8 flat top pistons in it. That woke it up. Now I’m looking for headers for it and maybe dual 1 barrels later.
What type of transmission was in the 1952 Chevy 3600 3/4 ton Truck? What else can you tell me about the original truck as far as looks or engine, etc?
I had a 65 Chevyvan 90. I took a 250 and bored it .060. Mild Crane kit 280/280Duration & Lift .536/.536,cam liifters and new springs and steel timing gears. I had the head ported and Lumped. Had the head worked with 1.8/1.6 valves with stainless seats. And bought a Clifford 4BBL intake that had monster flow. Topped it with a Weber 36/38 and cliffords 2″ shorty headers straight out the back. It was just too much work to convert the 3 on the tree to a four-speed. And the rear end is 1 inch wider than the Impala but not a truck rear end so I rebuilt it and. I was shocked. when it was time to drive it it sounded so sweet. And it felt like the HP had doubled. With that sad old 3 speed got a 20′ scratch in 2nd. As Clifford says 6=8. I won way more races than I ever thought possible.
I purchased a 1980 K10 with the straight 6 and the 4 speed tranny, will the 4 speed bolt up to a 350 small block
Please help me.. I want to know what engine bellongs to this code?
6JF106UB0. Could someone help me.
also I got the block casting number: 7829867 and also other code in the block: 1806.
please help me to know what engine is it?
1956 327 cu in with fuel injection.
Scratch it !! no fuel injection and no 327 available back in 1956….period !!
I had a 52 Chev with a splash system for lubrication. What year did Chev add an oil pump was it 53?
I have a 63 chevy Belair with a straight six and power steering setup so my alternator has a double pulley. Can you buy an alternator which has the double pulley?
Yes – and you can easily change the pulley too.
Will a later model Chevy 194 6cyl. fit into a 1934 Chevy 2 door Cabriolet with a 194?
Will it fit the trans, @ the bell, mounts, and other installation points?
A 1931 not a 1934
I just purchased a 1948 Chevy Business Coupe. It has a mid 60’s 250ci .03 over.
At the front of the valve cover, driver’s side, there is an opening with a rag stuffed in it. As it’s obvious the rag is not stock (lol) can anyone tell me what purpose the opening served and what should be done with it?
[…] Ford's 300 cubic inch straight-6 to Chevy's 250 inline unit, and even the Prince-Datsun-Nissan 6 cylinders, the Inline-6s were mega-successful. Ford and Chevy […]
[…] Ford’s 300 cubic inch straight-6 to Chevy’s 250 inline unit, and even the Prince-Datsun-Nissan 6 cylinders, the Inline-6s were mega-successful. Ford and Chevy […]
[…] Ford’s 300 cubic inch straight-6 to Chevy’s 250 inline unit, and even the Prince-Datsun-Nissan 6 cylinders, the Inline-6s have been mega-successful. Ford and […]
Can a 292 1963 or 64 be drop in a 1982 c10 custom deluxe I got the adapter to move the motor mount back to the 250 spot from 12 bolt do I need to move the mount blocks up on the cross member to mount it.
Why no mention of the Fisher 12 port head for the Chevy six. The Fisher brothers built this head in southern California as a direct replacement for the stock head. It had 6 intake ports on one side and 6 exhaust ports on the other and ran 3 2bbl, 1 4bbl or fuel injection. I worked at a street rod shop in Anaheim in the early 70’s (Specialized Auto) and had the pleasure of hearing one with 3- twos and a tuned exhaust.
I have a chevy 250 in-line 6. Don’t know what year, can you help?
Engine #’s – A187 Date Code
S/N F022CTBA F0120TBA
Engine Casting – 3820782
1971 Chevy 250 inline. Pulled the head and had it redone. Put thread sealer on the head bolts and reinstalled the head. It is still leaking coolant into the oil pan and it seems as though it’s doing it when it’s just sitting in the garage. No smoke when it runs but after it sits a few days the coolant level has dropped. Could the block be leaking somewhere?
My guess is that the block casting is compromised at the bottom of one of the cylinder walls below the lowest ring contact. Pull the oil pan and pressurize the cooling system. Put a piece of craft paper under the engine and look for drips.
Your block is probably internally cracked right where the front driver’s side head bolt is. That is a weak spot in the block and is just about impossible to repair. It leaks into the timing gears.
I have two Cast Iron Inline 6 cylinder motors that I would like to find out a little more about them and what they might be worth. GM 43 #3921968 – #3921978
I have a 1980 chevy 250 inline 6. 85000 miles auto. Coming home it got hot an kept driving for 4min.now blowing white smoke out exhaust an antifreeze in oil.what did I do???
Blew a head gasket or warped the head. Either way. The head needs rework.
I have always been interested in the straight 6, growing up in Long Beach, Ca, I drove a 1941 Chevy Coupe, I drove it for years. My present hobby car is a 1967 MBZ 250se/cpe. but to be honest it’s slow, the engine has been rebuilt, but sometimes I can’t stay up with the traffic. I’m restoring everything else, but the engine is frustrating. I live in Palm Springs, unfortunately there’s not alot of classic Mbz lovers out here. and even less mechanics that are capable.
Liked your info thanks i have a chevy 1941 1/2 ton
Looking for an already complete, ready to drop in 250 for my Chevy milk truck
I have raced the Chevy 1965 230 inline six for many years.
340 duration and .580 lift solid cam. I shift a 4 speed muncie M20 at 8,800 rpm. 15.5 to 1 comperssion. 1.94 / 1.60 5 angle valves. Holley 850 double pumper modified to 1,000 cfm. nice thing about the 230. it can use the 283 pistons with the high domes. In the heads it uses big block valve springs and rocker arms. Est horsepower using time slip and weight. 350 horse at the wheels. 432 horse on a dyno @ 8,800 rpm. nice street engine and strip. Inline six has built in low end torque. With that much cam. it is nice to drive in city traffic. 12.3 ET @ 103 mph best. 12.5 mostly. 3,900 Lb race weight (street car).
So I have to ask ,how did you get the BB rocker arms to fit right?
can anyone tell me What year the split exhaust manifold came out and on which vehicle would it have been found on
the 235, 250 and 292
[…] to use as many off-the-shelf parts as possible. That meant the Corvette was soon saddled with Chevy’s staid inline six and (GASP!) two-speed Powerglide automatic—a far cry from Harley Earl’s original vision of […]
Ok,I need help.i have a 1968GMC stepside and it has a inline straight 6. It’s the original motor in it.got it running but,i had to put brake booster didnt have one.got that done.vaccuum line that’s on the back of the carb do you tie it in with the line to the brake booster of the back of valve cover on top.one more thing on manifold there a vacuum line I think it’s been plugged off.what do you do with it.where does it go if I use it.
Hello Sir: My uncle was a straight 6
lover, left some parts for racing ,etc
We have, a 4 barrel Ofehauser manifold, 2 price headers (never used)
a brand new HOLLEY CARB. ,made special
for the Chevy 6 (never used )…..
FOR SALE AS A PACKAGE
What size Holley Carb is it? and what are you asking for this package.
Do you still have these parts for sale still?
I have a 230 6 in my 1965 GMC HandiVan- I let some knucklehead work on connecting up the throttle linkage after replacing the one bbl carb for another 1bbl carb.
Now this guy was creative, but it isn’t right at all. Custom homage crap out of nuts n bolts from Home Depot.
Q. Where can I find the proper throttle linkage to the carb?
Have you looked into something like a universal throttle cable kit?
Or you can try the old hotrodders trick: Hand-bend the linkage out of an old coat hanger first, then once you’ve got it perfected, replicate it with heavier round bar stock. If you don’t have the tools to work with larger OD steel bar, most any competent fab shop would be able to help.
I’m in the middle of swapping a 216 6 for a 235 I hear talk around that the 235 is longer what should I expect ?
My son has a 1964 Chevy Pick up with a straight 6 250. We rebuilt it about 4 years ago but he has only put maybe 300 miles on it since the rebuild. The problem he’s having is that when he drives it. Once it warms up and runs just fine. When he parks it, it spews oil out. He can’t figure out where its coming from. But it makes a mess everywhere he parks it. Any ideas on where it could be coming from? Its not an everyday driver so it sits a lot. Should we die test it to see if that tells us where its coming from?
First off .. .great first name. 🙂
I have a 230 six cylinder chevelle convert engine that was rebuilt not long ago. The carb is needing rebuilt or replace on the current stock engine other than petronics ignition and coil conversion. I would like to try to put a two barrel (one carb etc.) on the vehicle and slowly build up the engine. Is this going to cause tremendous issues on idling and acceleration if its not put in the new cam and headers added immediately?
Just trying to come up with a strategy to get the carb working again and increase performace too.
can you tell me the difference in a 292 marine cam and an automotive cam? Can you also tell me where I might find one?
Please recommend best next steps.. I have an Inline 250 in my 1968 GMC Van that is bored thirty over, an Offy 4 BBL intake, a Holley 390, and a cast exhaust manifold with a 2.5″ dump on it. The engine is worn out. The bottom end is knocking like it has a pan of rocks. The van will be used for traveling after the engine is replaced. My question is if there will be much difference in engine temps or gas mileage if I put in a stock short block instead of one that bored thirty over? What changes should I be making to keep some power but not keep getting 12 miles to a gallon? ff
Don’t know if this thread is still alive but am reaching out.
I recently discovered this article and discussion thread.
I have a 68 Camaro with a numbers matching 3.8 L 230 CID L6 engine. The car was originally badged on the fender with a “250” insignia.
Can anyone tell me additional information on how rare this engine is? Thank you in advance!
If the fender says 250 are you sure you have a 230? Either way those engines were common as dirt – used in just about everything GM built in the sixties and seventies (at least here in Canada)
1971 GMC C1500 / told split headers fit same but for4x4 only/but will fit 292 2wd . other than the 292 having a2″ taller block wouldn’t the same header fit the 250 ? Cancer patient on r/tight buget trying to get my last rides before it’s my time to go home
I have a 68 camaro with a3.8 L 230 CID L6 but the side marker badges are 250. Does this make sense. I know the 250 badges are OE as is the engine.
I own a 1991 Toyota Landcruiser with the 4.1 liter Bosch L Jetronic fuel injection system. Max torque is at 2,500 rpm, max horsepower is at 4,200 rpm. The motor appears to be a Chevy 250 clone, cast iron block, heads. How do I increase the power keeping the same torque curve and improve fuel economy?
Question. Building a 1971 Chevy 250. Wanting a very well balanced intake manifold. Wanting a engine to be balanced when idling and very quiet. Rolls Royce quality. Any thoughts please.
1979 292 with Delco-Remy HEI distributor in a P10 stepvan. Im rewiring the entire truck and need some help with the ” Engine speed relay” and ” Engine Speed Solenoid”
along with the “Idle Stop Solenoid” I am assuming this is all emissions related, Can I eliminate all of this and just bring Batt + Ground and Tach wires to the coil?
Hello all. Debating on buying 1982 K10 Silverado Pickup 4 speed. 4×4. a 350 V8 with a knock.
I’m 60 years old had the 10sec Chevelles, 442s, Vetts.
Question is will the 250ci 6cyl drop in frame with stock motor mounts?
The K10 is heavier differential,transfer case,front diff etc. I have been searching for a example of one only to find many C10s with 2WD powerglide.
Anyone with info, examples, input,info appreciated.
Help me with a 6 cyl 4wd K10
Wow, what a great thread!
If it’s still alive:
I have a 292 rescued from a retired 1966 GMC farm truck, my question is are the lifters solid or hydraulic? Thanks for an help with this!
I have a Chevy 235 that is .30 over, ported and polished 848 heads with big valves, forged crank, I believe a Howards H295 cam, rotating assembly and balanced. I have yet to put the motor in the car. I will be installing the motor in two weeks. What can I expect with this setup? Oh yeah an Edmunds dual single barrel carb intake as well. I Think it should move my 53 Chevy pretty good. What are your thoughts??