I have a ’67 Chevelle that I have decided to swap in a faster ratio steering box. All the stories I’ve read suggest that an ’88 Monte Carlo steering box is the way to go, but I think they are probably all gone as I can’t find one anywhere. Any ideas on a good alternative?
You are in luck because it seems that the early Chevelle steering box envelope was used in numerous applications. To jump right into this, we’ve included a chart that lists a bunch of 1990s vehicles that should be relatively plentiful in the boneyard.
|1985-88||YA||Chevy Monte Carlo SS||12.7:1||24-30||87°|
|1988-90||WZ||Full Size Chevy||12.7:1||20-26||87°|
|1991-94||CP||Full Size Chevy||12.7:1||17-22||87°|
|1995||CT||Full Size Chevy||12.7:1||17-22||87°|
|1992-94||AL||Jeep Grand Cherokee||12.7:1||20-26||87°|
|1995||JH||Jeep Grand Cherokee||12.7:1||20-26||87°|
|1996||KD||Jeep Grand Cherokee||12.7:1||20-26||87°|
|1997-98||WK||Jeep Grand Cherokee||12.7:1||20-26||87°|
But rather than search through the junkyard in hopes of finding the right box, a much easier method is to jump up on Summit Racing’s website and look for remanufactured gear boxes for these applications. As an example, A-1 Cardone offers a remanufactured steering gear box for the ’88 Monte Carlo that sells for $79.99 and requires a $29.00 core charge, but with free shipping the total cost is $108.99 and this is a remanufactured piece-not a leaking junkyard refugee.
Before you bolt it on, be aware there are some changes you will have to make. First of all, the steering input shaft diameter changed after 1976 to a smaller ¾-inch shaft from the early Chevelles’ 13/16-inch along with a different spline count. This means you will need a different rag joint, that rubber donut-looking piece that isolates vibration between the steering shaft and the steering box. The good news is that GM built several vehicles that will adapt the box to the shaft – and that rag joint is a Dorman part that Summit Racing carries. Some mild modifications will be required on the Chevelle’s steering shaft flange that attaches to the rag joint, but this is easily accomplished with a die grinder.
Next, the newer steering box is metric but don’t fret. Your Chevelle Pitman arm will bolt right up. However, the fittings in the box for the high pressure and return lines will be metric in the new box. This will require a decision on your part. The easiest way to go is to use high quality, braided steel or, my favorite, that fabric-covered rubber high pressure hose with push-on steel fittings. Earl’s, for example, sells metric steel O-ring fittings (also called Saginaw fittings) that will bolt right into the steering box with a -6 male connection for the AN hose. The high pressure 18mm fitting and the low pressure 16mm fitting are both $9.95. The power steering pump will require an inverted flare adapter to a -6 male for both the high pressure and low pressure sides. I prefer to use steel fittings here as they are more durable. The Earl’s 5/8 x 16 thread inverted flare to -6 male is $9.97.
You will note on the chart we listed the Pitman arm travel in degrees. The 87-degree arc is exactly the same swing as a stock Chevelle steering box, so there is no loss of turning radius. You may have heard that a third-generation Camaro (’82-’93) will work with a Chevelle, and it will. But the travel arc is only between 68 and 72 degrees, which means the Pitman arm will not travel as far, reducing the Chevelle’s turning radius. I’ve tried this swap and discovered that this loss of turning radius is very aggravating so I don’t recommend you use a third-gen Camaro steering box. We didn’t get into it on the application chart, but in theory the S-10 trucks and Blazers effectively use a Monte Carlo style front suspension, which means the steering box will also interchange. There are probably ratios that are quicker than others, so that’s another option should you choose to go that route.
One last note: Once you have the box installed in the car, and hoses connected, use a high quality fluid like Royal Purple, Lucas, Red Line, or the Joe Gibbs Driven fluids. With fluid in the pump reservoir, do not start the engine yet. It’s important to bleed the air out of the steering box before starting the engine and creating pressure. With the front tires off the ground, manually swing the tires to full lock left and right numerous times. You will notice air bubbles emerging from the fluid and the level will drop. Maintain the proper oil level in the pump reservoir until no air bubbles emerge as you swing the steering lock-to-lock. Now start the engine and again rotate the steering through its entire swing before lowering the front tires to the ground. The system now should be fully purged of all air and ready to test drive. Double check all your steering connections to ensure everything is tight before you drive the car. Then enjoy your new fast ratio steering. The difference will be amazing.
Jeff, is there a lighter bolt-on steering box than the S-525 for a 65 Chevelle. It’s a drag only application that weighs approximately 3000#. I don’t want to convert to a rack & pinion yet.
Will the alternatives listed above work for a 71 Chevelle? If not, please advise on the options.
Is there a reason no one uses a universal joint in place of the rubber rag joint? Seems pointless to upgrade to a midern gearbox then use a rubber coupler
I have new “crate 350 engine” it came with a power steering pump but I don want to use it. I just want to keep it in case I want to use it. I do not want to modify my “Serpintine” belt system. Can I just run it without fluid or do I need to bypass it
A power steering pump has moving parts that require fluid to not only lubricate but also cool them. So, if you don’t need the pump, you’ll need to remove it so it does not seize up on you.
why not buy a rebuilt quick ratio steering box that was available for the
chevelle that way you can buy over the counter hoses that fit?
If you’re installing a later model gearbox that uses the 16mm and 18mm “O”-ring fittings, you can still use the original lines by using the “flare adapters” from Borgeson.
They drop in the hole where the “O”-ring used to seat and create the correct 45° seat.
Notes: When installing, they do not have to be a tight fit in the “O”-ring bore. Per Borgeson, the “O”-ring areas were not always exactly the same diameter, so if one (or both) do not “drop” in, it is OK to sand the smaller area of the adapter until you can install it with ease. Also, the kit comes with 3 adaters. The two larger (inner) diameter adapters are for the steering gear. The smaller (inner) diameter adapter is for use on the pump (if adapting a late pump to early lines). In most cases, the smaller diameter adapter will not be used.
The best part is because the 16mm and 18mm threads from the newer gear are so close to the earlier (original) 5/8″ and 11/16″ line sizes, the newer gear accepts the older lines with no other modifications than the flare adapters.
To adapt the early 2-bolt flange of the “A”-body steering shaft to the later (smaller) gear-box input, the late ’70’s-early ’80’s Chevy C-10 used a rag joint that becomes the perfect adapter.
There is a much easier way to install the later model box into the early applications.
Use the Borgeson “flare adapters”:
Summit Racing part number: BRG-925122
The drop in the holes where “O”-rings originally seat in the late model gear allowing you to re-use the original early lines.
1) The early lines are 5/8″ and 11/16″ with a 45° flare, but the measurement and thread pitch are so close to the later 16mm and 18mm hoses in both diameter and thread pitch that they are interchangeable with no modification once the flare adapters are installed.
2) Per Borgeson, the bore of the “O”-ring seat varied a lot in the gears, so don’t be surprised if one (or both) of the adapters don’t drop into the hole. If you experience this, you can simply sand the smaller portion of the adapter until you can install it in the bore.
Also, since it was not specifically noted, the you can use the rag joint from late ’70’s to early ’80’s Chevy c-10 applications as they match the two-bolt flange of the “A”-body steering shaft to the later (smaller) gear-box input shaft.
Summit Racing part number: RNB-31011
The peice in the back of the steering pump unscrews interchanges between both lines way simpler
if i took the guts out of the 98 jeep box can i put them in a 70 chevelle box with the chevelle input shaft so i can keep the rag joint and lines original
It’s much simpler to use the Jeep box and just use an adapter rag joint. Call the people at Lee Power Steering – they have these in stock.
Lee Power Steering
Great article Jeff. Can you verify for me that the Cardone 27-6550 steering box is a direct bolt-on to my 1978 Trans-Am without any modifications. If I do need to modify fittings to make the stock lines work what should I purchase? Also is this a 12.7:1 constant ratio box like used on the Irocs, 3rd Gen TA’s, and Monte Carlo SS’s?
I can understand your question about the ratio as this article implies that the ratio is the fast ratio you’re looking for (12.7:1), but there is a Q&A on the Summit Racing website for this part from Cardone (dated September 03, 2017) that says this is a 14:1 slow ratio box…?! I want to get the right one, but there is all kinds of conflicting information!
If the steering box does not have the two letters on the end of the steering box how do you tell what gear ratio is
About the Monte Carlo steering box and they asked if it had the sport package or without a sport package I don’t know the answer to that I would like to put this in my 70 Chevelle with my LS1 motor can you help me with that
I have a 69 olds 442 that I installed the steering gear box #276550 along with recommended components. my problem is my car doesnt turn as short to the left as it does the right. Approc one and a half revolution different. Do i need to change additional components. A buddy die the same change in a 70 GTO with no issues…
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.