Our friend Eric the Car Guy has been building a 383 stroker for his #ETCGDadsTruck project (a 1990 C1500). In the process, he created a separate, one-off video covering the ins and outs of installing roller rockers and lifters.
Check out the video below for valuable tips and tricks, as well as a step-by-step video overview of the entire process. Although this video focuses on a small block Chevy, the process remains largely the same when using the same or similar parts on other engines.
Obviously Summit did not have a knowledgeable tech support guy review this before putting it up here. Earl the car guy does not show sufficient understanding of how hydraulic lifters should be adjusted for proper preload. His assumption about being sure the lifter is on the base circle is wrong for instance. This video should be pulled until it has been corrected. No wonder he had a lot of valve train noise when he started his motor.
Eric the car hack!
I really like the tech tips that you show and I have a stock rear end under my 1955 Chevy and would like to put 373 ring and pinion and make the rear end Pawsey traction to hold up around 450 HP But I was told from Summit that it’s not stock rear in cause the 1955 Chevy 210 model did not come with a 10 bolt rear end So how do I find out what rear end is under my car then cause I counted 10 boats around the rear end and someone else said it’s stock cause of the way the drain plug is on the rear end I appreciate it if you can let me know how I find out what rear end is underneath this 55 Chevy so I can try to get parts to rebuild it Kip
Thanks, I liked your video.
I’m using a pushrod checker and don’t understand the rocker preload.
In the video “setup/install of roller rockers and lifters”, you recommended a preload of 1/2 turn to full turn (from zero lash).
With a 1/4 turn, my valve is opening. When I blow in the exhaust port, air comes out the spark plug hole.
Is this 1/2 turn preload a heat expansion thing?
(SBC-327, roller rockers, roller lifters, hyd pushrod, no oil in system)