Basic Engine Building Tools That Should Be In Every Engine Builder's Toolbox

There are very few hot rodders who aren’t interested in horsepower and torque. All that power is tons of fun and internal combustion, piston engines are the center of all this attention. So it makes sense that many will want to build their own engines. It has an odd romantic appeal to be able to pronounce to friends at the local car show or drag strip that “Yeah, I built that!”

Beyond the knowledge base, the biggest hurdle to be able to back up that announcement is the necessary tools. (We will assume you already have the requisite hand tools like wrenches, sockets, ratchets, breaker bars, extensions, screwdrivers, and the like.) In the arcane world of engine building, there are many specialized tools that will require a dedication to investment. The good news is that it’s not necessary to buy all the tools all at once. For the true beginner, there are a few tools that are necessary and the rest you can acquire over time.

This story will take you through the first and necessary tools you’ll need to do the job correctly and efficiently. Each engine family like Chevy, Ford, and Chrysler engines all will have their specific requirements. In this short story we can’t begin to cover all the details for all engines, so we’ll revert to the classic small block Chevy as our example engine mainly because we’ve built so many over the years that we have lots of tools we can use as examples.

Read Part 2 of this article featuring more advanced engine building tools here.

Many of the tools recommended here will be sufficiently generic to use across many different name brands. One example would be a harmonic balancer puller/installer. These tools will work on most early engines but unfortunately may not be useful with later engines like the GM LS, Gen. III Hemi, or Ford Mod motors. A result of this is that many of these tool suggestions will take different routes based on their own specific requirements.

removing a harmonic balancer on an engine — Summit Racing offers its own version of this universal harmonic balancer tool that we’ve been using for years with outstanding success. With its adapters, this tool will both remove and install most factory and aftermarket balancers. (Image/Jeff Smith)

Putting Together an Engine Builder’s Toolbox

Right from the start, you will need an engine stand. We heard a story that NHRA Pro Stock legend Bob Glidden assembled his engines on a heavy bench because he didn’t want the stress of the bellhousing bolts distorting the block. But for the rest of us mere mortal engine assemblers, a quality engine stand is a must-have item. You don’t need one of those fancy ones with the gear-driven hub (even though that’s a tool we’ve coveted for years!) but a good four or splayed-leg engine stand rated at a minimum of 1,000 pounds is a must-have item.

man lubing a camshaft during installation — The first thing you’re going to need is an engine stand. There are a ton of them out there. Our oldest is this somewhat dangerous three-leg Lakewood stand that is no longer available because it can easily tip over. Look for a stand with four contact points or splayed legs that are more stable. Make sure the stand is rated to accommodate the weight of your engine. **Summit Racing offers a bolt-together engine stand** that can support 1,000 pounds, yet is very affordable. (Image/Jeff Smith)

Few of the simple tools in our list are expensive so it should not take long to acquire most of them. If you don’t already have a torque wrench, that would be a great initial investment. The classic clicker type torque wrench has never been more affordable, so that’s certainly one that should be at the top of your list.

Later engines are using smaller, metric fasteners and many of these may require an inch-pound torque wrench. If that’s on your list, consider using a beam style torque wrench. They are generally less expensive and work very well and rarely need to be recalibrated which is something the clicker wrenches demand when used over time. One way to maintain a clicker wrench calibration is to always return the wrench to near zero after every day’s use. Leaving the setting tightened up will weaken the spring and the wrench will lose calibration.

We’ve also included a couple of homemade tools you can duplicate that will save some money if you have the fabrication skills. For example, we use an eight inch length of thick wall aluminum pipe to help drive on crankshaft gears. The soft aluminum does not damage the gear.

Another simple tool is a piston stop (with the head off the engine) for setting top dead center (TDC) on a degree wheel. We used a half inch thick plate of aluminum that measures roughly five by eight inches that we drilled for hold-down bolts and a center stop bolt and nut. It’s simple, effective and cheap. We built it probably 30 years ago and it is still our go-to choice piston stop for small block Chevys.

using a piston ring compressor on an engine — Here’s a tool opportunity where you have a choice. Tapered ring compressors are extremely easy to use but are specific to a single bore size, which means for multiple engines you’ll end up with a large collection of compressors. Or, you can opt for the more expensive, multi-size tool (shown) that covers a range of bore sizes from roughly three inches up to 4.375 inches, and uses dedicated pliers to squeeze the rings. This generic tool does require some dexterity but it is something that’s easily mastered. (Image/Jeff Smith)

Accurate Engine Building Measurements

Perhaps the over-riding question in this story is how to measure bearing clearances. Online “experts” will forever tout the use of Plastigage, which is a simple wax material that is placed in between the bearing and the crank and torqued down. This flattens the material out and a scale on the side of the package indicates the clearance. We’ve tested this material and discovered it is often imprecise and not repeatable.

One additional reason not to use Plastigage is that the wax has a definite shelf life. After a period of time, the wax becomes brittle, especially if exposed to sunlight, which will affect its ability to compress consistently.

using a dial caliper on a rocker stud — Among the tools we use the most in the shop is a simple **dial caliper**. While not as accurate as a micrometer, we use it mainly for quick measurements of anything within its six inch measuring range. We’ve also used it to measure retainer-to-seal clearance (as shown here) and a dozen other dimensions. (Image/Jeff Smith)

The best solution is to use precision measuring tools like micrometers and dial bore gauges. These tools are not in our Basic tool list because of their cost. But just because you don’t own the tools, does not mean you shouldn’t use them. Perhaps a friend owns these tools that you can borrow or have him perform the measurements. Another solution is to employ a local machine shop to do the measurements for you. This will come at some expense, but this is the best insurance you can buy to ensure the correct clearances.

using a micrometer on an engine crankshaft — A quality micrometer is an essential tool for establishing bearing clearances. Look for a micrometer that is accurate to 0.0001 inch. For the entry level builder, a single 2-3 inch mic will suffice but a 0-1 and 1-2 are also useful. (Image/Jeff Smith)

This should not be considered a negotiable point. Why take a risk of tearing up the bearings on your newly completed engine because you took a short cut and didn’t make the effort to accurately measure the bearing clearances? The risk is way out of proportion to the reward of performing the task properly.

using a dial gauge on a engine crank bore — The other half of the micrometer investment is a quality dial bore gauge. This tool measures the inside diameter of the mains and rods (and other components) in order to establish bearing clearance. (Image/Jeff Smith)

A dial indicator and magnetic base should also be another item on your “I Need That” list of engine building tools. This tool will play a part in several other critical measuring process for items like crankshaft endplay, degreeing the cam, measuring valve lift, or establishing deck height. We’ve also used it to measure camshaft endplay on engines converted to run a roller where a button is necessary to prevent excessive cam movement.

There are a ton more tools that any professional engine builder would recommend but this initial list should get you started. Engine building is fun and ultimately very rewarding when you hear that engine fire for the first time—that part never gets old.

And the right tools make this process much more enjoyable.

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Keep scrolling to see some of these engine building tools in action, and we’ll include a series of tool lists and part numbers at the bottom of this article.

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