
A little while ago, we ran a story that mentioned how some spark plugs use a built-in resistor to help suppress electrical interference, so that vehicle electronic components (like radios or ECUs) can work properly.
And you can include digital gauges and displays in that mix too.
So with some help from New Vintage USA, we wanted to cover the topic of electrical interference, with a nod to your vehicle’s gauges.
A lot of the information in this story was plucked right from the Technical Resources on the New Vintage USA website. You should check it out—it’s packed with tons of good tech stuff.
Too much RFI or EMI creeping into your gauges can cause erratic, inaccurate readings. Or they may simply just not work at all. If you’re dealing with some of these electrical phantoms in your ride, this article may help.
What’s the Difference Between EMI & RFI?
For starters, you’ll typically see electrical interference referred to as either electromagnetic interference (EMI) or radio frequency interference (RFI). Truth is, RFI is a sub-set of EMI. EMI covers a massive spectrum of frequencies, whereas RFI refers to interference contained within a narrow slice of the radio wave spectrum. You’ll also here interference casually referred to as electrical “noise.”
Whatever you call it, too much EMI or RFI can wreak havoc on sensitive electronic components, so you’ve got to keep it under control.
Any good ham radio operator will tell you that EMI and RFI don’t necessarily behave in exactly the same way, but in the context of locating/suppressing it for this article, they can often both be addressed using similar tactics.

But keeping it under control can get tricky—by their very nature, engines produce plenty of electrical interference. According to New Vintage USA:
“The ignition system produces short impulses that generate a broad spectrum of frequencies. Other sources of EMI located within vehicles include motors that are used for blowers, windshield wipers, buzzers used for ignition and seat belt warnings, and voltage regulators that utilize points that open and close frequently. All of these devices generate interference in a frequency spectrum from the kilohertz range up to the gigahertz range.”
Methods to Help Control EMI & RFI
Yet automakers have a couple of tricks up their proverbial sleeves to help. We’ve already heard about the resistors in spark plugs, but there are other tools like resistor ignition wires, dielectric insulators, and grounding straps that all work to suppress electrical interference.
Electrical Grounding Straps
First off, a ground strap is simply a metal strip (often something like tin-brazed copper) or braid that connects your engine block to the vehicle body or frame (and ultimately the negative terminal on the battery). It’s extremely important because it serves as a quick, direct path to common ground for all the electrical components grounded to the block. Not only does that help complete the electrical circuit, a good grounding strap goes a long way towards suppressing EMI. You can often find the ground strap near an engine mount or on a section of exhaust tubing, so if you discover yours is broken, frayed, or torn, it’s worth replacing the ground strap.

EMI Suppression in Spark Plug Wires
And as far as spark plug wires go, New Vintage USA offers some insight into their construction:
“Spark plug wires deliver thousands of volts to the spark plugs. To do this successfully, they need to be covered in thick insulation to prevent high voltages jumping off the wire before it reaches the spark plug and a rubber boot at each end. The boot protects the metal connectors from moisture, corrosion, oil, and other contaminants.“

So your ignition wires and coil(s) are another good place to look if you’re battling EMI, and you can start by inspecting them for loose connections and torn insulator jackets.
It’s not all about ignition wire design and condition either—where you place them matters too. OnAllCylinders contributor Wayne Scraba wrote a lengthy article on the topic of ignition wire routing. You can read it here.
Dielectric Grease: A Little Dab’ll Do Ya
As a general rule, you’ll also want to use dielectric grease when you’re installing electrical components—and we’re talking everything from spark plugs to turn signal bulbs. We won’t spend a lot of time on the topic here, because we’ve got an entire article written about dielectric grease already. Check it out and you’ll see some other places to use dielectric grease with the goal of mitigating EMI.
Oh, and bonus points if you caught the Brylcreem reference.

Ferrite Beads Can Suppress EFI
If everything looks good under your hood, you can start addressing the individual component’s (be it a gauge, ECU, display, etc.) wiring harness. To help, the New Vintage USA folks give a special shout out to ferrite beads as a smart way to squash EMI. Here’s what they said:
“Ferrite beads prevent electromagnetic interference (EMI) in two directions: from a device or to a device. Ferrite beads are used as a passive low-pass filter, by dissipating RF energy to heat, by design. The geometry and electromagnetic properties of coiled wire over the ferrite bead result in an impedance for high-frequency signals, attenuating high-frequency EMI/RFI electronic noise. The energy is either reflected back up the cable, or dissipated as low-level heat. Only in extreme cases is the heat noticeable.”

And New Vintage USA even gives us some practical ferrite use cases too. To eliminate and reduce EMI/RFI noise you can add a ferrite bead to your wiring harness as shown:

Fighting EMI In Your Vehicle
All told, EMI and RFI are inevitable in any automobile, but it’s not too difficult to keep it from saturating your electrical systems. If you’re struggling with EMI/RFI issues in your ride, start with a close inspection of its major electrical components, like the alternator/generator, distributor, spark plugs, wires, and coil(s). If everything looks up to snuff, a ferrite bead or two can attack EMI on an individual component’s wiring harness, like a gauge, dash screen, or radio.
If you want to read more on the subject of EMI/RFI, check out this article on the New Vintage USA blog: EMI Interference (And How to Remedy It)
Do you think a ferrite bead could reduce the gremlins in my wife’s CRV Ifotainment system? (It looses its mind fairly regularly …)
If you do … Where should I put one?
Thanks!
Dave
Hey Dave, you didn’t mention what year your CRV was, or if it’s the stock head unit, but you should probably look for problems elsewhere first. Have you ever pulled the dash before, like for an HVAC service? Perhaps a connector got loose or its insulator got torn. Or maybe your ground strap was removed during an exhaust repair?
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But! I did some quick online searching, and there seems to be quite a few folks talking online about gltichy screens in 2017+ CRVs too–so it may be a bigger problem with the infotainment system itself. Check out the threads I linked to above, does that describe your problem?
Good article on EMI & RFI
When hot rodders build a car with a standard ignition distributor and carburetor RFI is never a problem.
Non resistor spark plugs and non resistor spark plug wires deliver maximum performance to the spark plugs.
With 8mm diameter spark plug wire insulation and a large diameter distributor cap the spark plug gap can be increased to .060 inches for a good increase in performance.
The biggest mistake hot rodders make is switching from an induction style ignition to a CD ignition system.
MSD style “CD” ignitions are inferior to “Induction” ignitions below 5500 rpm. They only show an improvement above 5500 rpm.
FALSE … Most CD systems are Multi Spark until 3,000RPM . There is Definitely an Improvement of Low RPM Power as well, Main issue is the extra interference generated by the Higher & quicker voltage spikes. Throttle response is WAY more snappy with CD systems, Most who Do Not have Electronics knowledge do Not actually understand how these systems work.
Make sure you have an ignition relay
Which spark plugs and coil packs produce the least rfi?
Hey Jerry, it depends a lot on the specific application. On modern cars and trucks, in my experience, the ignition system is well isolated–many OEMs are proactive about that to ensure their fancy infotainment systems are free from potential interference issues. And if you’ve got an older vehicle, your primary goal should be running the correct plugs (temp range/gap/projection etc.) to maintain proper combustion. (I ran into an issue on an old motorcycle in which resistor-spec plugs potentially caused ignition issues. (Click here for that story.)
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I’ve got an old mobile CB radio and a 2m/70cm Ham rig in my vintage Jeep and early-on, I had some RFI issues – but following the some of the troubleshooting steps listed above cured it.
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Are you running into a specific issue where you need supplemental RFI suppression?
I seem to remember that putting low voltage wire inside a braided cheth that’s grounded on one end only is a way to bleed of interference. Please correct me if I’m wrong. My 1970 Chevelle now with ACES TBI system runs like crap. I’m wondering if RFI (plug wires close to either 12 volt ot 5 volt) could be the problem.
Someone PLEASE help me out if you can, because I’m going crazy with my new NVU gauges!?!
My car is a 51 Chevy with a SBC 350, a one wire alternator, HEI distributer, vintage AC, and has been completely rewired with a new Speedway 12 circuit harness.
When I push the program button and turn the key on, the setup menu comes up as it should. Then I start the car and the screen is still good, but as soon as I push the program button again it starts going crazy.
I’ve tried unplugging each sensor under the hood “temp and oil pressure” at a time as suggested. I checked all grounds. I rerouted all of my wires to get them the furthest away from other wires “alternator, starter, fans etc”. I also completely disconnected the alternator and ran it. I installed dielectric grease inside of my new HEI distributer under the coil and to each spark plug wire boot. I even replaced my brand new coil with another new one. I installed all new MSD plug wires that are specifically made to block EMI signals. I installed the ferrite beads NVU sent me to the 4 wires per the instructions “which I was told should fix the problem by itself” and then even cut the power and ground wires going to my gauge and ran them outside the window and directly to the battery with jumper wires, and the gauge is Still doing the same thing!?!
At this point I really think I have a faulty gauge, but if any of you have another suggestion or advice, I would Greatly appreciate your help! Thanks in advance!
I was about to suggest a power supply problem, but then you mentioned running power direct from the battery. Is it possible to check the voltage at the terminal connector? I’m assuming it’s a “switched on” circuit, or does it have two power inputs–always on and switched on–like the old GM Delco radios that used constant power to run the clock and store memory, and then switched power for the radio/audio. I’d check to make sure you’ve got the power inputs properly connected.
You’ve done a great job troubleshooting it from my vantage point. It seems like you’ve addressed everything else. Have you tired contacting the folks directly at NVU? They’d have better insight than me, I’m sure. Good luck–and if you do get it sorted, drop us another comment and let us know what the solution was. Thanks for reading!
Hey Paul, thanks so much for your reply! There is only one power wire from each gauge that ties together and goes to my fuse panel with a 5amp fuse, so they only get power when I turn the key on. There are 3 ground wires “one from each gauge and 1 from the program button” that also tie together to go to one ground spot. I first had the ground to my dash “that worked fine with my old gauges” then I moved it to my firewall after grinding off the paint to make sure it was good, before finally running it straight to the battery to eliminate any question of a bad ground. When I cut the power and ground wires under the dash to run them outside the window away from Everything straight to the battery, I installed a inline 5amp fuse to make sure I protected the gauges.
I have communicated with NVU several times, and they did send me the ferrite beads to install and said that would fix the problem, but after that did not work all they tell me is that it is definitely EMI interference coming from somewhere and I should use a scope to find it.
I actually ordered a scope but could not figure out how to use it or find anyone that did, so I had to result to process of elimination. But clearly that hasn’t worked out for me, and I’ve spent a lot of time and money but only left with frustration.
I have literally addressed every single thing that people said the problem could be coming from, but I’m still in the same boat. The ONLY other thing I can possibly think of to do is to take the battery out of my Model A and set it beside my car and run the jumper wires to it to see if the EMI is going through my battery in the 51 that is hooked up to everything else in the car, If that’s even a possibility?
Can you think of a certain wire that’s under my dash that is close to the gauges that could be the problem? It would have to either be the ignition or the light switch if that was the case, but it doesn’t seem to me that they could be the problem?
I really appreciate you taking the time to read all of this and give me your advice! I’m ready to drive my car again!!! LOL
Just so I’m clear, the problem occurs only when the engine is running? It’s fine when the switched-on circuit(s) are energized? If not, have you tried pulling the fuses to each ancillary circuit (A/C, stereo, lights) one by one to try to isolate it? It certainly sounds like an RFI issue, but want to make sure we’re addressing the whole picture too. (I’ve seen wonky A/C blower motors cause some headaches.)
You’re on the right track it seems–the “noisy” systems are typically the engine related ones like ignition and fuel (EFI) systems (though any faulty component or incorrect installation can be the culprit too), but again you seem to have done all the right things here. So those are the ones I’d look for under the dash and route clear away if possible.
How is the fuse block mounted? There’s a chance the issue may be linked to a switched circuit, so perhaps there’s slight short (frayed wire, bent tab) that’s allowing the + side to enter ground when the switched circuits are on?
Is the coil mounted to the firewall? Perhaps temporarily relocate it? Please let me know – I’ll do my best to help offer some other things to look at.
Per the instructions, I push and hold the program button in and turn the ignition on. At that point the gauges power up and the LCD screen shows the “Setup Menu” Then I start the car and the “Setup Menu” stays on as it should. Then as soon as I push the program button again to be able to go through the menu, the screen goes crazy.
It is a brand new Speedway wire harness with new fuse block that is mounted to the firewall, so there are no bad wires there. But when I bypassed the fuse block by cutting the wires and running them straight to the battery, that ruled out that possibility. I also tried disconnecting the wires from the gauges that go to the temp and oil pressure sensors under the hood, and disconnected the alternator.
I am using a new HEI distributer so the coil is inside of the cap, but I did replace the coil in it with another brand new one and reroute the temp and oils sensor wires as far away from everything as possible.
Maybe it could be the coil wire that runs from the distributer to my ignition switch under the dash?
That could certainly do it, seeing as it’s a switched circuit. At the very least, it’s worth a clip-on ferrite bead to confirm.
From everything I am reading online, they to Not add a ferrite bead to the ignition coil wire?
Also, the ferrite beads I installed on my gauge wires were the little inline ones that NVU sent me. I don’t know if the clip on ones work better, but I haven’t been able to find the correct ones that I think I would need for these little wires?
To clarify, I have one “coil wire” going from my ignition switch to my fuse block, and another “coil wire” that goes from my fuse block straight to the coil in my HEI distributer.
I think I’m going to install a ferrite bead inline with the wire that goes from my fuse block to the coil and see what it does. I also got another new distributer cap, and if I still have the same issue then I’m Convinced I just got a faulty gauge and will insist on them replacing it, or do a warranty return and get a new one if they are jerks about it…
The thing that gets me and doesn’t make any since is that if there is nothing wrong with the gauges and the Actual problem is EMI/RF interference, than when I push the program button in and turn the key on, the “Setup Menu” comes on as it should, and then when I start the engine the screen stays on the Setup Menu and doesn’t start acting crazy until I push the program button again… If the problem was truly an EMI/RF issue, than that screen should start acting crazy as soon as I start the engine which would create the EMI/RF signals!?!?!?!
Ugh, sad to hear you’re going through this. I agree with your sentiment that the RFI should impact the gauge the minute the engine sparks. More importantly, it seems like you’ve held an absolute clinic in gauge troubleshooting too–I’ve racked my brain trying to thing of another diagnostic test, and you’ve covered all the bases from my perspective–save for running a separate battery.
Full disclosure: This is Summit Racing’s blog, so I’m inherently biased, but if you’re looking for alternatives, I’ve heard plenty of good things about Dakota Digital though those aren’t the cheapest options, of course. Our tech/customer support is also highly regarded, you can always reach out here with questions.
Best of luck with your Chevy!
I greatly appreciate you taking the time to respond to all of my messages and give your advice! I have looked at the Dakota gauges, but Wow they are about $1,000 more than these and apparently I’m stuck with these now because I looked at my order date and realized that I am past the 30 day return. So I was forced to reach out to NVU Again and asked them to Please let me send theses gauges back to them to get some replacements. After reading a lot of bad reviews, I’m not feeling very confident with the way NVU will handle this, but I’m hoping for the best!
All of that being said, I used to order a lot from Summit and never had a bad experience, but for some reason I started using Speedway. I guess because they had a lot of parts for my Model A at the time and I just kept using them for other stuff down the line. But moving forward I will start looking at Summit for my needs before looking anywhere else, just because of you giving your time to try to help me figure out my car issues!
Thanks again!
So… Over the weekend I have I have been reading up on bad reviews of NVU gauges and found a lot of people have also had bad experiences with them with multiple issues, and also talk about their horrible customer service, which I have been dealing with as well. So I think I am going to try the 2 last things I mentioned “even though I’m convinced I just got a bad set of gauges” and then do a return through Speedway since NVU isn’t willing to do a return. It’s very disappointing because these gauges are very expensive and are a Great look for a factory looking replacement, but this has been an exhausting and expensive ordeal from what they advertise as a “super easy plug and play”
I’m debating on returning these and trying another set because I love the look of them and just hoping I got a bad set, but after reading all the bad reviews, I’m feeling pretty hesitant, especially with people saying they worked for a few months and then went bad… Does anyone have a suggestion of another brand that looks similar?