The Summit Racing website has more than 12,000 listings for shock absorbers. The selection ranges from simple hydraulic shocks to gas-charged, single- and double-adjustable, off-road, and specialized racing shocks for circle track, drag racing, and road racing.
One of the shock brands offered by Summit Racing is Bilstein. The German company’s claim to fame is the development of the gas-pressurized monotube shock. Unlike traditional twin-tube shock absorbers that many of our favorite classic American rides came with, the monotube design has a large single cylinder that holds hydraulic oil and nitrogen gas in separate chambers with a floating piston valve between the two. The benefits are twofold:
• More efficient heat dissipation from the hydraulic oil
• Gas pressure on the floating piston for less oil aeration (foaming) and viscosity loss
Bottom line, a Bilstein monotube shock retains full damping characteristics under all conditions, is less prone to fade due to heat buildup, and has a longer lifespan than a twin-tube shock. The pressurized gas also eliminates the ‘floaty’ feel unpressurized twin-tube shocks can get when air bubbles form in the hydraulic oil from hard use.
You can learn more about how monotube shocks work in this Bilstein video.
I recently decided to replace the vintage Delco shocks on my 1971 Corvette with Bilsteins. This required a little detective work and a bit of an installation learning curve on my part. Let’s dig in.
Choosing the Right Bilstein Shock
For street-driven performance cars, Bilstein offers the B6 and B8 Series shocks. Both are OEM replacement-type shocks. According to Bilstein, the main difference between the two is the B8s have a shorter travel for use with lowering springs and larger sway bars. There are people that say the B8 shocks have stiffer valving to compensate for their shorter travel. That would make sense, but I could not find anything from Bilstein that lists different valving between the two.
There are some applications where you might choose to mix and match B6 and B8 shocks. My Corvette is a good example. I have a set of 550-pound front springs and a 360-pound composite rear spring. The front springs are much stiffer and shorter than the OEM baseline springs. The composite rear spring acts “softer” than its steel multi-leaf spring counterparts. The general consensus in the Corvette community is that with this particular combination, use B8 shocks on the back and B6s on the front. If you have a stock-type suspension with a steel rear spring, put B6s on all four corners.
Installation
Bilstein arranges the front shock upper mount hardware differently than OEM. For the Corvette, the OEM hardware arrangement order is washer-bushings-washer-attachment nut. For the Bilstein, it’s washer-bushing-washer-bushing-washer-attachment nut. The second washer for the Bilstein shock is machined with a recess in the center hole. The shock shaft is machined for and fitted with a wire C-clip. The C-clip rests in that recess. There’s no mixing up the washers because only one has the recess.
The Bilstein shock has no flat to hold when tightening down the attachment nut. Instead, the shaft is machined to accept a 5mm Allen wrench. This is actually a cleaner arrangement than the standard flats found on most OEM or replacement shocks.
At the bottom of the shock, you’ll find the T-bar mount is closed, not U-shaped. That’s good news, because it’s not uncommon to find a shock that is either improperly installed or has shifted to one side right through the open U-shape. The slotted, closed configuration of the Bilstein shocks solves that dilemma.
Bilstein seems to use bushings that have a harder durometer than an OEM shock bushing. Finally, the dust cover on specific Bilstein shocks like my Corvette’s rear shocks is made from a soft plastic instead of metal.
I haven’t had a chance to see how the Bilstein shocks perform as I’m in the process of redoing the Corvette from top to bottom. But I can show you how to install them in the accompanying photos.










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