Let’s say you have car you’ve spent a lot of time and sweat to build. It’s fast, or at least you think so. Your buddies are pressing you to get out there and “see what it’ll do”. But maybe you’ve never gone down the track with a really fast car. Maybe you’ve never gone down the track at all. In this article, we’ll help you figure out what parts and tools you should take to the track to do between-rounds tuning and basic repairs.
Some guys decide they’re going to be uber-prepared. They bring darn near everything they have save for the kitchen sink. But I’m here to tell you that’s a mistake. Here’s an example of something I witnessed decades ago totally changed my perspective on what a little guy should do and not do when working on a car in the pits:
After a qualifying session, a couple of quick bracket racers had their first gen Camaro apart in the pits. And I mean apart. Evidently, they were trying to make the first round and were desperately trying to fix a broken roller lifter tie bar. While the effort was epic, they were truly wasting their time. The lifter bore was damaged. The cam was probably junk. The engine would clearly need to come out. But they persisted in taking the engine apart in a bare dirt pit space with limited tools. I actually saw vise grips in action.
Unless you’re a pro racer, there is no real point of flogging a very dead horse. You’d be better served by loading the car back on the trailer and fixing it in your home shop where you have time and tools . For the novice racer, it makes more sense to bring basic fix-it and tuning tools to the track. You can get by with some basic tuning parts, hand tools, an air tank, and a few other odds and ends.
Tuneup Parts and Tools
The tuneup is key. A tune that works on the street might not work at the dragstrip. At the track, the starting line is almost always coated with rubber and traction compound to some degree. Weather conditions change. Temperatures and humidity (essentially density altitude) during the middle of the afternoon are going to be far different from those experienced in the early morning or evening.
For a car with a carbureted engine, bring a timing light and a distributor wrench. The car might respond to timing changes depending on conditions. The same goes for carburetor tuning. For example, the carb might need to be rejetted or you may need to work with accelerator pump cams and shooters to offset a stumble. Bring a vacuum gauge, jets, and power valves too.
You’ll also need a set of spark plugs, a plug socket, and a ratchet. Don’t forget a gapping tool or a set of feeler gauges too. Having spark plugs in heat ranges that are colder and/or hotter than the ones you normally use can be helpful with fine-tuning the engine.
Another engine tuning variable is valve lash. You can use slightly varying lash numbers to artificially increase or decrease cam duration. Some combinations might require specialty tools for setting lash (see the accompanying photos). A valve spring seat pressure tester is a wise addition to the track tool box, particularly if your combination has a healthy roller camshaft. This OnAllCylinders article will explain why.
Tire Pressure
Drag cars often respond changes in tire pressure as race day progresses and conditions improve or get worse. That’s why you have to keep a close eye on tire pressure in those situations. You’ll need a good quality tire pressure gauge that provides consistent readings. If you run slicks or drag radials, you should have one gauge just for them and one for the front tires. You’ll also need an air supply—a basic air tank will work fine.
Another thing you should have is a tire cover. If the car is being baked in the sun while you’re in the staging lanes, the side most exposed to the sun will definitely see tire pressures increase. Bring along an appropriate socket and breaker bar to double check lug nut tightness. Torque limiting extensions are a great idea for this application – this OnAllCylinders article explains why.
Suspension Tools
Some things racers tend to forget are suspension adjustment tools. If you have adjustable shocks, you may need a specific screwdriver to turn the adjustment knobs. For cars with adjustable traction bars, you’ll need specific tools to set them up. Usually a 1/2-inch drive ratchet with the appropriate socket and box-end or open end wrenches will suffice. Some cars might have an adjustable anti-roll bar that requires specific wrenches.
Other Stuff
Ask I said, it’s really not a great idea to do extensive repairs at the track, but there always little repairs that need doing. Here are some basic items you should take with you:
• SAE/metric socket set, 3/8-inch drive will cover most needs
• Open and/or box end wrenches that fit most common fastener sizes
• Screwdriver set
• Pliers
• Spare ignition wires, distributor cap, and rotor
• Spark plug wire and electrical wire crimpers/strippers
• Electrical wire, connectors, and electrical tape
• Valve cover and carburetor gaskets
• Fender covers
If you have space, a compact floor jack and jack stands are good things to have at the rack. Some plywood sheets cut to fit under the jack stands will keep them from sinking in soft pit spaces.
Obviously, extra jugs of gasoline and water, a few quarts of oil (engine and transmission), and funnels should be standard equipment. Don’t forget hand cleaner and a roll of shop towels. Band aids and some anti-bacterial cream won’t hurt either.
This is a minimalist take on track time tools for a new or occasional drag racer. Experience will dictate what additional tools or parts you will need going forward. The quarter-mile beckons, so let’s go racing!










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