Let’s say you have car you’ve spent a lot of time and sweat to build. It’s fast, or at least you think so. Your buddies are pressing you to get out there and “see what it’ll do”. But maybe you’ve never gone down the track with a really fast car. Maybe you’ve never gone down the track at all. In this article, we’ll help you figure out what parts and tools you should take to the track to do between-rounds tuning and basic repairs.

Some guys decide they’re going to be uber-prepared. They bring darn near everything they have save for the kitchen sink.  But I’m here to tell you that’s a mistake. Here’s an example of something I witnessed decades ago totally changed my perspective on what a little guy should do and not do when working on a car in the pits:  

After a qualifying session, a couple of quick bracket racers had their first gen Camaro apart in the pits. And I mean apart. Evidently, they were trying to make the first round and were desperately trying to fix a broken roller lifter tie bar. While the effort was epic, they were truly wasting their time. The lifter bore was damaged. The cam was probably junk. The engine would clearly need to come out. But they persisted in taking the engine apart in a bare dirt pit space with limited tools. I actually saw vise grips in action.

Unless you’re a pro racer, there is no real point of flogging a very dead horse.  You’d be better served by loading the car back on the trailer and fixing it in your home shop where you have time and tools . For the novice racer, it makes more sense to bring basic fix-it and tuning tools to the track.  You can get by with some basic tuning parts, hand tools, an air tank, and a few other odds and ends.

Tuneup Parts and Tools

The tuneup is key. A tune that works on the street might not work at the dragstrip. At the track, the starting line is almost always coated with rubber and traction compound to some degree. Weather conditions change. Temperatures and humidity (essentially density altitude) during the middle of the afternoon are going to be far different from those experienced in the early morning or evening.

For a car with a carbureted engine, bring a timing light and a distributor wrench. The car might respond to timing changes depending on conditions. The same goes for carburetor tuning. For example, the carb might need to be rejetted or you may need to work with accelerator pump cams and shooters to offset a stumble. Bring a vacuum gauge, jets, and power valves too.

You’ll also need a set of spark plugs, a plug socket, and a ratchet. Don’t forget a gapping tool or a set of feeler gauges too. Having spark plugs in heat ranges that are colder and/or hotter than the ones you normally use can be helpful with fine-tuning the engine.

Another engine tuning variable is valve lash. You can use slightly varying lash numbers to artificially increase or decrease cam duration.  Some combinations might require specialty tools for setting lash (see the accompanying photos). A valve spring seat pressure tester is a wise addition to the track tool box, particularly if your combination has a healthy roller camshaft. This OnAllCylinders article will explain why.

Tire Pressure

Drag cars often respond changes in tire pressure as race day progresses and conditions improve or get worse. That’s why you have to keep a close eye on tire pressure in those situations. You’ll need a good quality tire pressure gauge that provides consistent readings. If you run slicks or drag radials, you should have one gauge just for them and one for the front tires. You’ll also need an air supply—a basic air tank will work fine.

Another thing you should have is a tire cover. If the car is being baked in the sun while you’re in the staging lanes, the side most exposed to the sun will definitely see tire pressures increase. Bring along an appropriate socket and breaker bar to double check lug nut tightness. Torque limiting extensions are a great idea for this application – this OnAllCylinders article explains why.   

Suspension Tools

Some things racers tend to forget are suspension adjustment tools. If you have adjustable shocks, you may need a specific screwdriver to turn the adjustment knobs. For cars with adjustable traction bars, you’ll need specific tools to set them up. Usually a 1/2-inch drive ratchet with the appropriate socket and box-end or open end wrenches will suffice. Some cars might have an adjustable anti-roll bar that requires specific wrenches.

Other Stuff

Ask I said, it’s really not a great idea to do extensive repairs at the track, but there always little repairs that need doing. Here are some basic items you should take with you:
• SAE/metric socket set, 3/8-inch drive will cover most needs
• Open and/or box end wrenches that fit most common fastener sizes
• Screwdriver set
• Pliers
• Spare ignition wires, distributor cap, and rotor
• Spark plug wire and electrical wire crimpers/strippers
• Electrical wire, connectors, and electrical tape
• Valve cover and carburetor gaskets
• Fender covers

If you have space, a compact floor jack and jack stands are good things to have at the rack. Some plywood sheets cut to fit under the jack stands will keep them from sinking in soft pit spaces.

Obviously, extra jugs of gasoline and water, a few quarts of oil (engine and transmission), and funnels should be standard equipment. Don’t forget hand cleaner and a roll of shop towels. Band aids and some anti-bacterial cream won’t hurt either.

This is a minimalist take on track time tools for a new or occasional drag racer. Experience will dictate what additional tools or parts you will need going forward. The quarter-mile beckons, so let’s go racing!

Engine tuning tools
Engine tuning tools are critical. The tuneup you have on the street will likely be different from the one you need for racing. Track conditions change constantly and you have to adapt to them to get the best performance. (Image/Wayne Scraba)
Timing light and distributor wrench
With ‘old school’ carbureted cars, a timing light and distributor wrench are a must. You might find the car will work better with different ignition timing, and there are some situations where you’ll be better served by “de-tuning” the car. (Image/Wayne Scraba)
Spark plug wrench and gapping tool
Bring a spark plug wrench, the appropriate socket, and a simple gapping tool. You’ll need to pull the plugs to see if the carburetor jetting is too rich or too lean. Changing to plugs with a different heat range can help the car respond better. (Image/Wayne Scraba)
Carburetor jets, boosters, power valves, and pump cams
Common engine tuneup items include a vacuum gauge, carb screwdriver, and a collection of carburetor tuning components. Jets, power valves, shooters and pump cams should be in your arsenal. (Image/Wayne Scraba)
Valve lash adjusting tool and feeler gauges
If you have a solid flat tappet or roller camshaft, you will probably be setting valve lash between rounds. You can also adjust lash numbers a bit to artificially increase or decrease cam duration. Either way, you’ll need valve lash tools, a set of feeler gauges, and at least one valve cover gasket. (Image/Wayne Scraba)
Air tank, fender cover, and air pressure gauge
You’ll be adjusting tire pressure to compensate for changing track and weather conditions. A simple air tank, a reliable air pressure gauge, and a good tire cover to prevent pressure creep due to sun exposure will make the job easy. Torque limiting extensions, a breaker bar, and a lug nut socket should be included in the mix in case you need to remove a tire. (Image/Wayne Scraba)
Wrenches and sockets for suspension adjustments
If you have an adjustable suspension system, you’ll need the right tools to make changes. Some adjustable shocks require a screwdriver to alter compression and rebound. Rear traction bars and four-links also require special tools for adjustment. (Image/Wayne Scraba)
Assorted hand tools
You’ll need “fix it” tools and parts for small repairs. In addition to a socket set, wrenches, screwdrivers, and pliers, pack some electrical wire and connectors in the appropriate gauge; spark plug and conventional wire crimpers; electrical and duct tape; and a flashlight. A spare distributor cap and rotor can come in handy. Remember, we’re not performing major overhauls in the pits. (Image/Wayne Scraba)
Jack and jack stands
If you have room, bring a compact jack and jack stands. You can’t check stuff under the car or remove a wheel without them. (Image/Wayne Scraba)
Fuel jug, water jug, engine oil, cleaners
Other must-have items include gasoline, engine oil, transmission fluid, and water. Brake cleaner, penetrating oil, and funnels should be on the list too. Same with hand cleaner and shop towels. (Image/Wayne Scraba)
Share this Article
Author: Wayne Scraba

Wayne Scraba is a diehard car guy and regular contributor to OnAllCylinders. He’s owned his own speed shop, built race cars, street rods, and custom motorcycles, and restored muscle cars. He’s authored five how-to books and written over 4,500 tech articles that have appeared in sixty different high performance automotive, motorcycle and aviation magazines worldwide.