The panels have positioning holes pre-drilled at the corners. Additional holes need to be marked and drilled. Self-tapping screws can be used to hold the panel in place on the subframe when marking the drilling locations.

Before riveting a panel to the tubing, apply a bead of silicone caulking on the edges to minimize noise and possible water leaks around the rivet holes.

Structural adhesive can be used when installing the panels for more shear strength. However, this makes it difficult to remove panels to access mechanical components.

The installed panels on the front of the chassis…

... and the rear.

The aluminum dash panel has holes cut out for gauges. You can order a blank panel if you want to do a custom gauge layout.

Factory Five provides a Ron Francis wiring harness for the gauges. The harness is clearly labeled to make assembly easier. You can assemble the gauges on a workbench and install the dashboard as a single unit.

This closeup of the dash padding shows the “pie cuts” needed for wrapping the vinyl around the panel. Don’t make these cuts too close to the edge. After applying the contact adhesive (we recommend 3M Super 77) don’t press down too firmly on the padded vinyl or it will absorb the glue and leave a mark. Use a stack of books or similar-weight objects to apply light, even pressure to the vinyl as the adhesive dries. Make sure the metal side of the panel faces up.

Once the dash is complete, it’s usually better to install it with the body mounted, so there’s no gap on the upper edge. (This photo shows a preliminary fitting with the body off.)

In the top-mount pedal assembly, there’s an adjustable clutch quadrant for the clutch cable, with a threaded section to adjust the height of the pedals for the driver’s preference.

It’s fairly simple to change the size of the master cylinder to match the size of the brakes you are using.

Here’s a closeup of the clutch cable adjustment. Tailoring pedal height to the driver is time well-spent.

The pillow block bearing for the steering shaft can be adjusted with shims to suit your driving position. A set screw in the collar of the bearing allows the upper steering shaft to be moved fore and aft.

Aluminum pedal pads complete the pedal assembly.

The seat supports are bolted down after the carpeting is laid. The steel floor pan on the Mk4 allows the seat to be mounted where you prefer. It’s better to check seat fitment during the body-prep phase (before painting) so you don’t risk damaging the final finish.

The battery mounts in the right rear of the chassis. Make sure the grounding is through-bolted to bare metal on the frame. A separate ground is supplied for the fuel-filler cap as well. This will prevent sparks from a static charge.

Ron Francis designed the wiring harness specifically for the Factory Five Mk4 chassis. The loom should be installed at the same time you install the aluminum panels.

The fuse box that comes with the wiring harness is mounted in the driver’s foot box, near the steering bulkhead.

Here’s what the interior should look like when it’s all buttoned up—a classic, functional look that’s all business, just like the rest of the car.

The wheels are modern bolt-ons, but have a cover to conceal the lug nuts plus a knock-off style spinner. The front wheels are 17 x 9 inches, the rears are 17 x 10.5 inches.

Now everything is installed—time for a test drive! SKJ Customs, builder of our Mk4, did a shakedown run before doing the final paint and bodywork. That technique allows you to sort the car without worrying about ruining a new paint job with potential fluid leaks, greasy handprints, etc. Whether you take a drive in primer or wait until your car is painted, always check things like the brakes and steering before heading down your favorite road.

The finished product. And thanks to Summit Racing’s Factory Five Combos, you can duplicate our Mk4 right down to the Viper Red paint stripes. Want to build one differently? That’s the beauty of getting your parts at Summit Racing—you can build a Factory Five Mk4 just about any way you want. After all, it’s your car!